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ROGER SCHAELI

SWITZERLAND

"Absorb what is useful, discard what is useless and add what is specifically your own."

Bruce Lee

ROGER SCHAELI

Bio

 
As soon as he began walking, the mountains became his fate. What started off as a mere hobby, later evolved into a proper job. Roger Schäli is a professional mountaineer. For the 34-year old Swiss all-rounder, however, climbing is much more than a job. Even more than sheer performance. Climbing is passion, a sentiment, a strong emotional confrontation with the mountain, with life and, ultimately, with himself. The Eiger is where he feels at home. Its north face is his living room. He climbed it 35 times. Along the most disparate routes. The Eiger made him strong and prepared him for the mighty, arduous walls and summits of the world.

His activities in the mountains made him a globetrotter. He leads one or two expeditions each year. The remote corners of the world are what interest him the most: mountains where no man set foot before him. Routes which are unknown territory. New spaces: this is what he cherishes. The journey in itself, sharing moments with friends and climbing partners from all over the world are an essential part of this passion, which goes beyond the mere sport connotation: “The moments shared in the mountains are very special, intimate, and intense. The bond that unites climbing partners is, brought to extremes, like an umbilical cord.” These special friendships are the most valuable thing which a life as a mountaineer can bring you. Roger Schäli is determined to continue his role as an all-rounder and experience the various facets of mountaineering. Bringing the idea of free climbing to the big mountains and the big walls of this world is his goal. Being fair to his colleagues and sustainability are important to him. But most of all: never lose the fun and joy of climbing!

In the 2018 summer he made "Climb the Alps Projekt": in total he climbed to 34 Alps-Climb, with 25 different rope partners, spend 99 days in the mountain, 34 falls, 25550 vertical climbing meters, 61050 Meters of altitude difference, 19 sketchy situations, 44 moments out of my comfort zone. In 2019 he sent "El Gran blau" 8b+/c in Oliana and „Amber“ 8b+/c in Lehn Swiss and then he shifted to  the first winter ascent in Rope Solo of the Eiger Route "Adam and Eva".

 

Interview

1) Who is your favorite climbing partner and why?
Christoph Hainz, because he is a master of combine hard climbing, simplicity , efficient, intuition and having fun.
2) Which is the first La Sportiva shoes/boot you used?
Mistral Climbing shoe
3) What is your favorite climbing/mountaineering book?
I don’t really read mountaineering books
4) What is the mountain you would like to see at least one time in your life?
Gasherbrum 4
5) Do you take part to a charity or cultural project?
Charity Projekt in the South - Africa - Town-Ship. --> https://rogerschaeli.ch/roger/africa
5) What's in the air?
Training hard for the first one day redpoint ascent of „ La vida es silbar „ 7c+, 900m - Eiger Northface and first redpoint Ascent of our FA „ Silverback „ 300m, high up on the 4000m peak
Jungfrau together with Stephan Siegrist. First Redpoint Ascent of my FA „ Airplane Mode „ 300m on the Eiger Northface and going back to Grand Capucin and fulfill the redpoint ascent of „ Voie petite „ 8b - 400m.
In addition, a Meru Expedition, high - alpine first ascent on Meru Peak 6660m, Garhwal Himalaya and a Patagonian project with Jonas Schild, Main Goal, Fitz Roy Traverse.

 

Highlights

  • 1992 He receives the first harness as a gift.
  • 2002 First ascent of "Fior di Vite" (800m, 90°, M5, 7a) on Arwa Spire (6193m) in India. (he free climbed it in 2012 with Simon Gietl)
  • 2004 Patagonian triology: Cerro Torre, Torre Egger, Cerro Standhardt.
  • 2016 First Ascents in 9 different countries: Germany, Italy, Greece, Marokko, South Africa, Peru, Patagonia, Alaska and Norway.
  • 2018 Climb the Alps Projekt: in total Roger made 34 Alps-Climb,with 25 different rope partners in 99 days.
 

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