BARBARA ZANGERL

Born:24/5/88 AUSTRIA

"Life isn’t about how many breathes you take but about the moments that take your breathe away."

BARBARA ZANGERL

Bio


I grew up in the middle of the Tyrolean mountains in a valley called Stanzertal, in a small village named Strengen. After finishing a medical technical school, I started to work in the hospital in Bludenz as radiology technical assistant. I decided to leave the "routine" in 2011 and started to work less and built my life around climbing. I got into climbing when my brother took me along climbing when I was 14 years old. That’s how I started. Together we went to the bouldering gym in Flirsch. I enjoyed climbing from the very first minute. After my first visit to the gym, I went climbing regularly. Later I climbed a lot with my sister Claudia and Bernd Zangerl. He took us to a rock wall for the first time. Together we checked out the various boulder areas in Switzerland. I can remember very well my first time on rock. Back then I could hardly imagine that climbing on a natural surface could be so much better than what I did before. It was an incisive experience for me. After that, I’ve been focused on bouldering for six years and travelled to the different bouldering areas around the world. The next key moment, was my backinjury, a herniated vertebral disc (happend in 2009), which made me to change my attitude towards climbing a bit. I wasn’t allowed to do bouldering for a long time, which was my focus up until then. There was too much strain on my disc, especially when jumped down from a boulder. Therefore, I started with easy sport climbs, which at the same time was a kind of therapy for my injury. That’s how I discovered a new passion. I thoroughly enjoyed trying something new. Today I can say that it is more motivating for me to combine everything and enjoy.

Last Results

Sportclimbing:
Instructor 8c+/9a (Vorarlberg)
Unleashed 8c+ (Vorarlberg)
Erkenntnis 8c (Ötztal)
verything Karate 8c+/9a (Bishop, CA)
Missing Link 8c+ (Voralpsee, CH)

Big Walls
“The Nose“ (El Capitan, all free)
„Freedom“ (Rote Wand, Arlberg, 9-pitches up to 8b)
„Headless Children“ (Rätikon, 7pitches up to 8b, 2 days)
FFA- „Zeit zum Atmen“, (Rote Wand, Arlberg region; 7pitches: 7c,8a,8a+,7c+,7c,8b,8b/+)
Pre-Muir wall El CAP (32 pitches up to 8b, 7 days ascent; single push, ground up)
Father time, middle Cathedral, Yosemite (20 pitches up to 8a+, 4 days ascent, single push, ground up)
Odyssee, first free repetition, Eiger Northface, CH (1300m, 33pitches up to 8a+/5.13c)
Magic Mushroom, El CAP (11 days on the wall, all free)
Sangre de Toro, FFA, Rote Wand, Lech am Arlberg, AUT (300m, 6 pitches up to 8b+)
FFA Speed integrale 9a (Voralpsee, CH)

 

Interview

1) Who is your favorite climbing partner and why?
Jacopo Larcher, he is the best! We are a team in life and climbing since a very long.
2) Which is the first La Sportiva shoes/boot you used?
La Sportiva Cobra was my first climbing shoe back in 2001.
3) What is your favorite climbing/mountaineering book?
Climbing free, Lynn Hill.
4) What is the mountain you would like to see at least one time in your life?
Cerro Torre.
5) Do you take part to a charity or cultural project?
Charity bouldering: A bouldering event which is happening once a year to donate money for a good cause.
6) What's in the air?
1. Going on a real expedition. Pakistan, Greenland
2. Putting up a new line somewhere in a good style
3. Visiting Madagascar
4. Going on beach vacation ;)

Highlights

  • 2001 First climbs
  • 2009 First female bouldering 8b with „pura vida“ Magic Wood, Switzerland
  • 2009 Back injury—changing focus in climbing, no more bouldering
  • 2011 Hotel Supramonte (the year where I got psyched about big wall climbing)
  • 2015 First free route on El Cap (El Nino, 8 days on the wall to free the whole line, ground up)
  • 2017 Magic Mushroom, Odysseey and Speed integrale
  • 2019 Natonal Geographic adventurer of the year

 

 

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