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François Cazzanelli together with Nadir Maguet, both La Sportiva ambassadors, have chained in speed, without stopping, the two most imposing peaks of Valtournenche: the Matterhorn and the Dent D'Herens in 15 hours and 57 minutes for a total of 4300 m and 35 km length.
“Express Dream", a challenge that can be understood as the expression of a dream and an express run among the ridges of Valtournenche: this is how Nadir Maguet and François Cazzanelli, friends and renowned athletes from Val D’Aosta, decided to name their project, that led them to who last August 21st signed the Matterhorn and Dent D’Herens chaining, passing not for the normal routes, but for the most beautiful classic rock routes offered by these mountains: the “Diretta Agli Strapiombi” of the Furggen and the “Cresta Albertini”.
A chaining like that is the perfect connection between the worlds of these two athletes: Nadir Maguet has made available his experience as a top athlete in Skialp and sky running competitions to manage the aerobic part of the project; François Cazzanelli has used all his experience as an alpine guide and mountaineer to manage in total safety all the technical parts.
Starting at 2.15am on August 21st from the church of Cervinia (2,050 m), they climbed to the Breuil pass (3,332 m.), then headed to the Matterhorn by the via degli Strapiombi of Furggen (4,478 m) which they reached after 5 hours and 20' from the start and then descended along the Leone ridge to the Duca D'Abruzzi refuge (2,802 m). From there they made the transfer to the base of the Albertini ridge (2,500 m), climbed the Albertini ridge up to the Grandes Murailles pass (3,957 m), and then climbed to Dent D’Herens (4,171 m) for the east ridge. In total, it took five hours from the start to the summit.
Later, they descended from the Tiffenmatten ridge to the Aosta refuge (2,788 m) and then continued the descent in Valpelline until the Prarayer refuge (2,055 m). Everything in total autonomy carrying all their material!
«It has been a long time since I wanted to chain these two Valtournenche symbolic mountains in just one day - says François Cazzanelli - it's a little dream that comes true, another great satisfaction. With Nadir the feeling was excellent, we climbed very well and precise. I hope this will be the beginning of many other adventures to share together».
The chaining project name “Express Dream”, comes from the desire of the two athletes to face in a pure and simple way with their mountains. It is not a question of seeking yet another record, but to imagine a path and fighting to pursue it.
«This year, without competitions, I dedicated myself a little more to the mountains - says Nadir Maguet - to discover a new world. When François proposed this project to me, I immediately accepted it. We trained a lot and we immediately found an excellent feeling, that was confirmed the chaining day of these two amazing peaks. It was like discovering of a new world and the possibility of improving my training as an athlete. Hereafter, I would like to continue in this direction too, hoping to be able to carry out other projects with François».