Estate Indiana is the new mixed route opened by François Cazzanelli and Leonardo Gheza on Central Breithorn

Cazzanelli and Gheza's new line is located on a very complex and fascinating face, and was climbed in classic style, in the cleanest manner possible: in fact, only friends and ice screws were used. “We decided to call it 'Estate indiana' because of the truly anomalous temperatures for this time of year. However, we were lucky; full north, the climate was excellent, the face does not get sun, meaning the conditions were suitable for climbing this line, which I had been studying for a long time." said François Cazzanelli.

The route is the most direct one traced on this face and starts on the vertical of the large pillar of Torre Maggiore: it includes a series of gullies that lead to the base of the pillar itself, which is climbed on the left side, following a dihedral that is difficult to see from the base. The climb was particularly challenging, both in terms of technical difficulties and for the surrounding environment, which is very severe, isolated and evocative. “The wall is vertical, at times overhanging; furthermore, appropriate protection is not always obvious and we had to go long stretches without using any. A climb with no easy pitch, with lengthy stretches: Leo and I took turns, climbing one pitch each. Furthermore, on two pitches, the rock is not of excellent quality: you can climb, but you have to climb well and with great care." said the La Sportiva athlete. 

It was a long and challenging day for the two climbers: after leaving the Matterhorn Guide Refuge at a quarter past five, they reached the tip of the Torre Maggiore on Breithorn Central at seven in the evening, as daylight was fading. “It was a truly magical moment, we made the most of the last rays of sunlight: to the north, in fact, it was cold and during the stop we wore down jackets and thick gloves. That way, we enjoyed the sunset, seen from one of the peaks in the heart of Monte Rosa, even more.” said Cazzanelli.

Born and raised in the mountaineering tradition at the foot of the Matterhorn - which he has already climbed 104 times - for his 'Estate indiana' climb, Cazzanelli used. G-Tech by La Sportiva, the reference boot for technical mountaineering, ideal for ice climbing and modern mixed climbing. In fact, this Aosta Valley mountaineer has been collaborating with the Ziano di Fiemme company for some time on footwear development. As for clothing, the athlete opted for the Supercouloir suit from La Sportiva's Alpinetech line.

Cazzanelli paid particular thanks to his friend and climbing partner, Leonardo Gheza, a climber from Esine with a strong mountaineering background, who is also a member of the La Sportiva family of athletes, CAI academic, skier and paragliding pilot who, in just ten years, has climbed numerous walls in Italy and abroad: his overseas expeditions include Patagonia, Pakistan, Nepal and the United States.