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PATXI USOBIAGA

Born:9/7/80 SPAIN

"A muerte."

PATXI USOBIAGA

Bio

 
Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza, best known as Patxi Usobiaga, is a Spanish professional rock climber, sports climber and boulderer. He is known for winning two Lead Climbing World Cups in a row, and for being the first climber who onsighted an 8c+ (5.14c) route. Usobiaga started climbing in Atxarte when he was 10 years old. For four years he was belayed by his father. When he was 15, he climbed his first 8a route, ConanDax Librarian, in Araotz. When he was 18 he redpointed his first 8b route, Parva Naturalia, in Araotz.

From 1997 to 1999 he participated in youth competitions. In 2000, he started competing at the Lead Climbing World Cup. In 2003 he earned his first gold medal in Edinburgh. When he was 26 he earned his first Lead climbing World Cup. Next year, he won his second one. Due to these outstanding achievements he was awarded the Salewa Rock Award in 2007. In 2009 he won the Lead Climbing World Championships in Qinghai (CHN). At the end of 2009 he underwent a shoulder surgery and after three months of rehabilitative therapy he started training again. On June 2010 a car accident caused a painful slipped disk. In 2011, he announced his retirement from competitions.

He climbed 267 routes graded between 8a and 9a+, 158 of which were onsighted. He was the first climber who onsighted a 8c+ route (Bizi Euskaraz, in Etxauri, 2007).

 

Interview

1) Who is your favorite climbing partner and why?
A good friend who push you up is the best! Everything changes, years ago, I didn't care with who to climb, with the only purpose of trying the route I wanted. But today, the company is more important than climbing, so climbing does not make sense if there is no good accompaniment.
2) Which is the first La Sportiva shoes/boot you used?
Viper and Kendo in 1995. Soon Cobra and Miura were designed and till 2010 I was only using them, right now I have a big addiction with SOLUTION, the shoes that in 2007, when I tested them first time I could not  feel as good as with Cobra and Miura.
3) What is your favorite climbing/mountaineering book?
Wolfgang Gullich was the first book I had read. Ad a book that made me dreaming with climbing.
4) What is the mountain you would like to see at least one time in your life?
There are some places I would like to visit like Indian Creek, Yosemite, Rocklands, Australia, Japan… I think there are many places that I would like to visit  in the future.
5) What's in the air?
Climb, Train, Blot  and REPEAT

 

Highlights

  • 1990 Started climbing
  • 2006-2009 Winner lead World Cup 2006-2007
  • 2007 Bizi Euskaraz ONsight
  • 2009 Winner Lead world Championship
  • 2017 PAchamama 9a+/b

 

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