New alpine multipitch free climbed in Ötztal by Hansjörg Auer and Alex Blümel

Hansjörg Auer and Alex Blümel climbed a new route on Kristallwand in the Ötztal Alps.

Hansjörg Auer,
22. August 2016

Spread over three days Hansjörg and Alex opened the route in ground-­up style and free climbed it on August 19, 2016.
The 500m high wall on Kirchkogel (3280m), located in the upper Gaißberg Valley, was first attempted by a team around Hermann Buhl nearly 70 years ago.

After  Hansjörg’s routes "The music of Chance" (6c/A3) in winter 2012 and "The music of Hope" (7a/A1) in September 2014, the new route is only the third line on the wall. Furthermore the new route  "The loss of the Demantoid" is the first free route on Kristallwand and breaches difficulties up to 7c+. Protected with amix of bolts,  pitons and bird beaks you still need alpine experience to do the climb. Except one pitch, the rock quality is perfect.

"I can´t recommend the first two routes on Kristallwand but The loss of the Demantoid is a great climb in a even greater alpine setting."

In memory of our too early deceased friend Gerry Fiegl.

photo credit: Elias Holzknecht