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Barbara Zangerl: my climbing gym is the world


This spring we asked to the Austrian climber Barbara Zangerl to contribute to our La Sportiva Training Magazing project, while sharing some thoughts on what training means for her and how important it is in her seasonal routine, that from the American national parks to the woods of the Voralpsee region, brings her to be one of the strongest and most versatile climbers in the world.

This spring we asked to the Austrian climber Barbara Zangerl to contribute to our La Sportiva Training Magazing project, while sharing some thoughts on what training means for her and  how important it is in her seasonal routine, that from the American national parks to the woods of the Voralpsee region, brings her to be one of the strongest and most versatile climbers in the world.

If I say training ... I think "gym", because for me then the rest is just climbing.

As much as I can enjoy climbing outdoors, in every place and condition, I personally consider the time spent in the gym maybe not as fun, but certainly just as important. I like spending time training, psychologically preparing myself for the upcoming season and its challenges.
Although in my style of climbing I really like changing types of projects, I don’t have a specific training for different kind of rock or a special training for a special route.
For me it is more like a training program where I gain power and endurance to get ready for my projects.

I usually spend 2-3 months a year in the gym, usually from December to the end of February, a period when I rarely find myself on the wall ... although I like the idea of seeing my absence from the rock not so much as a “training retreat”, but mostly like a different focus. I think people who know me know that I like the time outdoors on the rocks on different big walls or sport climbs much more than the training indoors.

But I enjoy it to have a daily routine and follow the motivation to get fit again and combine that with different sports like backcountry skiing or cross-country skiing. Another positive thing about such a long period in the gym? That I get extremely motivated to climb on real rock again.!

Since my main focus is currently on big wall climbing, sport and trad, I try to concentrate on power first. Most of the time I train in the bouldering gym, doing different circuits (like a sloper, crimp- and pinch circle) repeating them at least 3 times a week. I climb each circuit 8 times and at the end of this interval training, I do power exercises, to move hand over hand without feet, training with the rings and co.

Or I just go bouldering and try different boulders in the local gym by alternating exercises on the campus board, eventually combining it with a bit of stretching.

And after a certain time, I focus more on endurance and less on power, climbing a lot of pitches in the rope climbing gym, or making longer circles in the bouldering gym.

Last tips?

For me personally it is really motivating to have a training partner, that makes it much more fun even if I have a day where I am not 100% motivated.

I think the most important about the gym training is that you don’t have to force yourself to a strict program. Listen to your body and enjoy the training.

Share the training with friends and have fun doing that!

Discover more, read the La Sportiva Training Magazine! https://issuu.com/lasportiva/docs/training_mag_preview

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