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Climbing shoes of champions: which are the best models and why according to our athletes


Waiting for the upcoming World Climbing Championships in Innsbruck, let’s take a look into the luggage of our athletes: Which climbing shoes will they choose for competing these weeks?

Mina Markovič: SLO, 30 years old

Pyhton, no doubts. I’ve used it for the first time in 2011 (and won the world cup overall): Since then, I am loyal to this model.
Biggest reason why is because the are pretty soft, but still very precise and suitable for high level climbing and competitions. They also fit to my foot really well. Another reason is because I also like a lot toe-hooking and they are definitely the best model on the market for that for me.
From other models I also like new Skwama and Solutions. Them both fit nice to my feet, are precise and good for heel-hooks. As they are a bit harder (than the python of course) I prefer them most for rocks climbing and projects. But still very value and high-end shoe for me!

Stefano Ghisolfi: ITA, 24 years old

Whether on rock or in the gym, I use exclusively climbing shoes with No-Edge technology. I like to have more sensitivity on every kind of hold, especially during competition, when you have to climb on sight. The construction of the toe box follows perfectly the shape of the foot, adapting to the wall I am facing and allowing me to place the foot exactly where I want and in a super-fast way.
My favourite? If you follow me probably you will already know the answer, are Futura. They are versatile for any kind of route I can find in a competition, precise on both small holds, high volumes and heelhooks.

Anak Verhoeven: BEL, 21 years old

My favourite competition and rock-climbing shoe is the Testarossa. I like the pliability of the sole and its soft heel which works perfectly for heelhooking.
Since I have a quite wide feet, it could be hard sometimes find the perfect climbing shoe, but thanks to the lacing system, this model adapts well to my foot shape. Definitely, the Testarossa will be my fellow during the lead competition in Innsbruck, so keep your finger crossed!


Michael Piccolruaz: ITA, 22 years old

When I come to any vertical “problem”, I always have a Solution ready for facing it.
Apart from word games, my favorite shoe is definitely the Solution, really do.
The reason why, is that there’s no other shoe that can give me the same feeling and confidence as this one. When I use it I can blindly trust about the precision of my movements on footholds, I know that I will never slip from a hold or a heelhook - and if it happens, it would probably be my fault-.
With no other shoe I could climb so high as I did with the Solution. This is also why this model will be with me in Innsbruck, where I will try to do my best for keeping on with the good results already grabbed this year.

Petra Klingler: CH, 25 years old

My favorite climbing shoe is definitely the Python. I love it for the comps, even if I can easily wear them for almost every style of climbing - Slabclimbs as well as steep roofs and rock climbing -.
I like this model because of both heel and toe-hoocks are amazing and, thanks to its softer rubber, you can really feel the holds under your feet.  You have to grab the foothold with your toes and keep tension, (which is something that in other shoes is supported by an harder rubber and more supportive structure). But you lose the feeling.

Another big quality of the Python is that it’s a fairly comfortable shoe, for being a climbing shoe. I never get blisters or bruises and can get through my trainings without pain, which is a big relieve as I spent quite some time in this kind of shoes 😉

Since last season the Python got a new “competitor”, when I first tried the Skwama, training a lot in them and having a really good feelings…  but for competitions, I still like to stick to my good Python.

Adam Ondra: CZK, 23 years old

I am not always using the same type of shoes, for me there is no such a thing as the best shoe ever. But there is the best shoe ever for certain kind of climbing.
For the very steep climbing in general, I would take either Skwama or Solution. They are very downturn in toe box which is a crucial tool in the big overhangs. They have very different heels, I prefer Skwama heel hook when it comes to heel hooking on small holds, Solution strike when it comes to heel hooking on the volumes. Other shoes I am using a lot are Speedster - for me the best shoe with No Edge technology, ideal for onsighting in not too steep terrain.
Then there are Miura XX or Miura VS woman that I use for small and sharp footholds and hard heelhooks in general.

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