GET FREE SHIPPING
CLIMBING PRO COLLECTION
WHO WE ARE
Jacopo Larcher - Strange Heroes
La Sportiva ambassador Niccolò Ceria tells us more about his recent trip to Fontainebleau, sharing some reflections about the future of bouldering and the current state of the holds should be needed.
Text by Niccolò Ceria
I have been in the climbing scene since 14 years now, and almost 10 in the rock climbing world. I also grew up in a gym like wide part of the new generation of kids does nowadays. I must admit I haven’t been always perfect, pure and 100 % ethically clean in what I have climbed so far. I made several mistakes during the past and, still now, I am often learning new shades about this topic, trying to go deeper and deeper into the knowledge of the good approach that a rock climber needs. Hard to admit, but learning the unwritten laws of bouldering might take a while. Ethics and respect are probably values you acquire during a relatively long path. The learning process happens if you are flexible to catch small details and if you are lucky enough to meet the few climbers who still put passion and respect into the outdoor bouldering.
All of this is hard to match by these days, especially considering that even the most media climbers aren’t often the most clean. In fact, most of the celebrities can’t be taken as examples under this side. 10 years ago we were definitively living in a different community, and I felt blessed to have know the last wave of this way of living bouldering. It was somehow harder and less comfortable, but definitively richer with dreams, magic and real values.
Rocks aren’t stationary as we imagine. They changed from the smallest details to the biggest chunk. Our short lives hide us the truth that the game we are playing is just a matter of time. Everything we climb was dust and it will return to dust in the future. This is the nature we belong to.
But, dramatically, even in a shorter period of time, boulders can be altered. And certainly not only for natural reasons.
Having put up a decent numbers of lines, I could note how the holds change during the flow of the seasons and how the holds can alter ascent after ascent. Even if it deals of micro details, it’s rare that we can repeat the problem in the exact and same state as the first ascentionist did. There are plenty of examples around, especially on soft kinds of rock like sandstone or limestone. Boulders change for natural reasons in long terms of time and for human being impact in a shorter period of time. We can definitively manage our use, limiting the ruin of the rock. So, we are somehow responsible of all of this deterioration process.
And seeing how bouldering is getting more and more popular by these days, the state of the rock will probably depend more and more on our behavior as the years roll on. We are responsible of the heritage we have and protecting all of this should be our first priority. It should, because apparently it is not what we are actually doing.
I walked through many areas this time here in Font and it was, in some sort of ways, sad and ridiculous to note how some holds currently are. If you would take few steps into the Forest, you can count endless doses of tickmarks left and, most impressive, touching some holds which are not the same anymore. Few times ago climbers who haven’t any ethic didn’t brush the boulders at the end before leaving. Now it seems that they don’t even use a brush for their whole session, complaining about the conditions when they should only need to clean and take care a bit more. Slopers, crimps and jugs are surrounded and covered by a chalky layer which is pretty heinous to remove and it’s getting more and more into a permanent state. And this is going to change completely the nature of the texture.
This is probably due to the quantity of people which is getting into the climbing world, and, more important, to the very low qualities values that these people are bringing into the outdoor world. Hard to say where the source of the issue is and even harder to imagine a possible solution to stop the loop and restart from the beginning. It seems that the baton of the old Bleausards generations has been somehow lost for unknown reasons.
Bouldering is becoming like business. Business that deals with personal egos, glory and certainty not money for most cases.. I am pretty sure some climbers don’t even like climbing anymore.
Having patience, failing, falling, learning, improving, experiencing, respecting, being humble is all now replaced with illusionary good performances, quick sending time and loads of insta likes. It might be only an opinion of few, but we are getting into a valueless climbing world.
Almost nobody still cares about the only and simple rule we should follow which is the one to impact as less as possible while we do bouldering. We are lucky to practice an activity that only counts an handful of unwritten rules; we are free and nobody catches us with a red card if we get wrong. We just need to preserve our heritage in order to continue to enjoy our level of freedom and to respect all the other climbers who want to enjoy rock with passion, sacrifices and efforts.
Every of us owns a brush. Use it. Carefully. For your performances, but even more to limited the ruin of the rock we all love.
Lavaredo Ultra Trail: everything is ready for the first La Sportiva edition
Resole your climbing shoes at Arco Rock Star
Browsing from one of these Countries?
Accept and Continue
Cookies are small text files that contain information about your visit to our website and are stored on your computer or any other device able to browse the internet, for example a smartphone or tablet.
We use these cookies to make browsing our site easier, to show you content that is relevant to your needs and interests and to help us speed up your future visits and activities on our website. The cookies assist and simplify the interaction between the user and the site and allow the site to remember your preferences and individual activity, thus saving time and contributing to easier and more efficient browsing. Cookies memorise information about your visit online (for example; language, number of visits and dimensions of text) and aid the implementation of various services (user registration, contents of your shopping cart, subscription to newsletters or updates on products, etc.).
Cookies are also employed to create anonymous group statistics that let us analyse how visitors use our site, allowing us to improve the structure, content and services of this site.
Any services present that do not offer complete anonymity will be found in the third-party cookies list and you may deny them consent, safeguarding your privacy.
This site makes use of three different types of cookies:
These cookies ensure that the site works in a correct and fluid manner: they allow you to navigate between pages, share content, they memorise your sign-in credentials making access to the site faster and they keep your preferences and credentials active during browsing and purchasing. Without these cookies we would be unable to provide the services which motivate the user to access this site.
2. Statistical cookies
These cookies help us understand how our users browse the site and navigate the online store so that we may assess and improve its performance and create content that best matches our visitors' preferences. For example, these cookies show us which are the most and least visited pages, how many people access the site, how long is spent on the site by most users and how they find us online. With this information we can find out which are the best features and which could be improved, while ensuring that site content is uploaded quickly and displayed appropriately. The information these cookies collect is anonymous and not associated with any of the user's personal data. These functions on our site are managed by third-party service providers who render the data anonymous and untraceable to any single individual.
These cookies are distributed by third parties and not directly controlled or under the control of Zerogrey. Zerogrey does not therefore accept liability regarding the use of any information collected by the owners of these third-party cookies.
The cookies provided by such third parties can offer advanced features as well as more information and personalisation. These include the ability to share content across social network platforms and to maintain a personalised online site experience on the basis of any preferences expressed on pages previously visited. These services are for the most part offered by external operators. If you browse using an account or if you use third-party services on other websites, these may be able to track a user who has visited our site. The use of the data collected by these external operators through cookies must adhere to the respective privacy policies that you will find on the link copied below. Third-party profiling cookies are identified by the names of their respective operators in the list indicated below which also contains the tools for managing or disabling them.
You can change the settings for downloaded cookies on your computer or mobile device through the appropriate feature on your browser. You may also block the installation of third-party cookies and remove previously installed cookies, including those that define your cookie preferences that you may have may have set here. To check or adjust the settings on your browser you need to consult the instruction manual or your browser's help window.
The instructions regarding cookies for the most widely-used browsers are available here
Chrome : https://support.google.com/chrome/answer/95647?hl=en&p=cpn_cookies
Internet Explorer: http://windows.microsoft.com/it-it/windows-vista/block-or-allow-cookies
Alternatively, to disable some or all cookies you can use the following tools.
Disabling our cookies may affect your browsing experience, diminish efficiency in accessing certain parts of the site and erase preferences for future visits to the site.
Remember to set the browser on your devices in a coherent manner so that each one may be adjusted to reflect your cookie preferences.
Further detailed information on cookie features and how to enable or disable them on most browsers is available online at www.aboutcookies.org or http://www.allaboutcookies.org/privacy-policy.htm. For in-depth information and assistance with cookies used for advertising purposes visit http://www.youronlinechoices.com/it/