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Stormbringer - No Retreat - Ice Climbing on the big lines of Norway


Matthias Scherer and his crew talk about the last year trip to Norway. An amazing reportage not only about ice climbing but, most of all, about "dreams". Dreams which bring back the trio to Scandinavia these days.

Last ice climbing season in February 2015 we had set out for the third time in a row to the west coast of Norway to Eidfjord with the objective to climb a monstrous ice line called 'Fjåne Fossen'.
From this journeys we took very precious memories with us: not only on the impressive and committing climbs we did but also the experience of the raw energy of the northern hemisphere, the power of the unleashed winds never stopping in their rage and the feeling of meaninglessness facing such archaic elements. It gave us an idea how mankind maybe felt once and how the need did arise to explain to themselves the terrible beauty of this world.  In the face of the incredible power of the Fossen the fragility of human life, a climbers life, becomes clear. Fossen rarely freeze completely. They constantly reshape themselves - with sometimes huge parts of them collapsing like imploding buildings.  It was all about finding the right day with the right conditions for the climb but also for oneself and our team of three. In this week in February we found the right days for finishing the ascents of Fjåne Fossen (WI IV/6) and a possible first ascent next to it that we called Stormbringer (WI IV/6+). The commitment on both lines was high. We had left Cogne with the information that Fjåne Fossen was formed and all our minds had been set by the same conviction for this journey: no retreat  This conviction came from our individual and common experiences and gave us the necessary momentum to do the ascent after the previous attempts. You cannot take back a breath or a heart beat - so it goes with the dreams we life to realize. Once a dream has risen there is no more going back.

While I am finishing this lines winter has returned with its full might on us. In few days we are again on our way to Norway, the big cold has settled on the northern hemisphere. The call of the mighty ice lines has risen. Time again to bring reason to unreason. by Matthias Scherer (c) Locations: Eidfjord  (Norway)
Team: Matthias Scherer, Tanja Schmitt, Heike Schmitt