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Aguja Poincenot 550mt M4 5+ Fitz Roy: Pilastro Nord 1200mt 6c
Per questo viaggio in Patagonia il terzo per me ero stato avvisato, quest'anno a causa di El Nino la meteo rischia di essere poco clemente. Per fortuna quest'autunno sulle Alpi, é stato davvero ricco di scalate, é quasi con un sentimento di sollievo che mi reco nel posto al mondo dove piu si rischia di avere un sacco di tempo per riposarsi. L'importante in Patagonia é di avere tanta fame e dopo una decina di giorni passati a osservare incredibili tempeste di vento ci decidiamo a tentare la sorte grazie alla promessa di una notte serena e senza vento all'avvicinarsi di un ennesima perturbazione. Con la speranza di appena qualche ora a disposizione, adattiamo i nostri progetti e ci dirigiamo verso la bellissima e classica Poincenot. Con i miei amici e colleghi Guide di Chamonix Damien Tomasi e Pierre Labbre e Robin Molinatti Guida di La Grave partiamo leggeri e motivati a scalare rapidamente. Dopo qualche ora di riposo nella foresta passiamo la notte a recarci ai piedi della montagna ed attacchiamo alle prime luci del mattino. La meteo sembra eccellente, con solo qualche nube in agguato, ma le previsioni sono chiare a partire dalle 9 la perturbazione si parcheggia sul massiccio per diversi giorni. Come spesso in Patagonia scaliamo con il sentimento che ogni minuto guadagnato potrebbe essere quello che fa la differenza tra un successo e la beffa. Alle 8 del mattino siamo in vetta nel bel mezzo di una classica tormenta Patagonica. Scendiamo con precauzione e ritroviamo con pazienza la via di discesa sul giacciaio nel maltempo. Tutta la discesa sarà annaffiata da continui rovesci, la giornata sembrava cosi bella all'alba...ritorniamo al Chalten bagnati come pulcini e ben affamati. Un'attesa di una settimana ce ci fa temere che el Nino avrà la meglio sulla nostra pazienza ed ecco apparire la possibilità di un paio di giorni di tempo eccellente! Infine si puo sognare, tutto il massiccio ha ricevuto davvero tanta neve e bisognerà scegliere con cautela un itinerario che non sia impraticabile a causa della quantità di neve che incrosta le pareti. Penso che il lato Ovest del pilastro Goretta al Fitz Roy possa offrire delle buone chance di riuscita e convinco i miei compagni Damien e Pierre, a provare.
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