Paolo Marazzi: all the numbers of Greenland

by Paolo Marazzi

I think it was mid-July when, coming back from Verdon, I received a message from Angela Percival, a Canadian girl with I use to climbing around sometimes. The message was something like “Any plans for August? Do you want to come in Greenland with me, Paul McSorley and Vikki Weldon? "
I guess that I thought about it for a second, maybe two, and then I get my answer.
The group was perfect, I knew that nothing would go wrong with them:
Paul, Canadian, I met him two years ago in Chamonix. It was morning and we had a cap in the village, talking randomly about travels and wonders. We just always had the same exploration concept.
Vikki, Canadian too, we climbed together a lot this summer, in both Chamonix and Cadarese.

The problem wasn’t the group, but the place. I was kept in the dark until a few days before the departure, when I got a ticket to Reykjavik. After a day passed driving through Iceland, we sailed along the Denmark Strait on a 18 meters boat, untill reaching a fjord which I can’t remember the name.
But I remember the name of those ice walls that I saw once inside, the "Mythic Circle", and the name of the boat, Aurora Artika.

As the days we spent between ocean and granite walls. From the boat I could look up and run into 800 meters high walls, or just turn around and be weltered by four meters high waves. Which sincerly I fear most.
After days of sealing surrounded only by the ocean, suddenly see all that rock and ice was pretty cool, almost unreal.

The new routes. The first line up we found was the Hidden Tower: one day approaching and one for climbing the new route, "Cindarella ridge", 800 meters of granite, 5.11d, no spit.
The second, instead, was on a more distant wall with no name. Once on, the top we decided to call it Aurora Tower, as the boat that bring us around all these days, searching for walls.

To climb the Aurora Tower, it took a whole day just to get there, climb it and begin the descent. We spent the night, the longest and more illuminated by stars and colors of my life, on a 5 stars ledge. In the morning, we came back to the boat.