GET FREE SHIPPING
CLIMBING PRO COLLECTION
WHO WE ARE
Jacopo Larcher - Strange Heroes
After few days from the epic achievement signed by Adam Ondra, Flatanger has been the scenery for the Paige Claassen's latest realization. After one month working on the route, the La Sportiva ambassador has sent "Eye of Odin", 8c+.
As I clipped the chains on my summer project, I felt a surge of confidence. “I’m back!”, I thought, making a mental note of my progress since tearing the ligaments in my ankle in February. The recovery had taken longer than expected, and I’d spent the last few months trying to rebuild my fitness and mental stamina – after all, it’s difficult to push your limits when you’re afraid of falling on a fresh injury. Street Fighter, an 8c+ near my home in South Africa, marked a big step in my rehabilitation. Suddenly, I realized I needed a fall project, perhaps a trip with a challenging objective.
I scoured the internet, looking for a unique location with world class sport climbing and dreamy September conditions. After clicking on a link of Ethan Pringle making the First Ascent of Eye of Odin, an 8c in Flatanger, Norway, I knew I’d found not only my location, but also my project. I found a few partners and booked tickets right away.With only a month to prepare for my trip to Flatanger, I knew I would need to take some dramatic steps to be in top form. Flatanger’s steep and thuggy routes are my anti-style. I’m a better technical climber, and not particularly strong in the big muscle groups. I’m terrible at toe hooks, knee bars, and campus style moves. So, I wrote out a strict training schedule, which was very different from my typical approach – weighted pullups, TRX workouts, and a toe hooking routine I made up for a home wall (see Training Video).
When I arrived to Flatanger and tried my first few routes, I felt surprisingly well prepared. My training had paid off, and I felt dynamic, confident, and motivated. The fine grain granite gneiss compound created the most inviting features and holds. I was in climbing paradise.I quickly set to work on my primary objective, Odin’s Eye. Featuring 4 distinct cruxes, I had my work cut out for me. The first crux is a powerful boulder featuring a small iron-cross campus move and a high heel. During the third week of working the route, I strained my hamstring on the aggressive heel hook, and had to take care not to injure it more permanently, thus hindering the rest of my trip. The second crux is a long span from a wet under cling, just before the obvious “eye” feature. While a few people questioned whether or not I would be able to span the move, I knew that my long ape index of 13cm would be sufficient. Plus, I don’t believe in the excuse “it’s too reachy”, only “not enough power”. The fourth crux is a powerful stab from a bad slopey under cling. It’s not too difficult, but I knew it could be possible to fall here, at the very end, after climbing through 3 much more difficult cruxes. It could be a heartbreaker finish.
The third crux gave me the most trouble. A bicep intensive under cling traverse with an elaborate foot sequence leads to two powerful moves on poor holds. The 45 degree angle combined with 2 knee-bars on poor smears, a tricky toe hook, and more bicep moves could be translated to “my worst nightmare”. It took me two weeks just to do all the moves, and another week to be able to link them together. But things still felt desperate and low percentage, so I began analyzing the finer details.My left foot played a crucial role in the third crux. I needed to knee-bar with my toe on a very small smear, and couldn’t risk it slipping. I needed 100% confidence in that smear. The rock in Flatanger is almost like a fine sandstone, so I knew a no-edge climbing shoe would be perfect, as the rounded toe is much more trustworthy on smears. I chose the Genius because the laces cinch tight around my narrow foot. I used a right toe hook on a positive but precise under cling. During my toe hook training, the Skwama were by far my favorite, because the toe hooking rubber comes much farther up the shoe, and there are no laces in the way.In the end, a Genius on the left and a Skwama on the right was the perfect combo. After unlocking this beta and learning the exact angle at which I needed to place my toe hook, I was ready to send. I came close a few days prior, in perfect conditions, but I felt nervous and put too much pressure on myself, ultimately falling simply because I didn’t try hard enough.
On Tuesday, there was very little wind, which meant the route was wetter than normal, and all the under clings leading up to the second crux were wet. However, I knew it was still possible, and that if I could get through this section, the second half of the route would be dry. I clipped up the route to dry the holds as best I could with a t-shirt, toilet paper, and chalk, then lowered and rested.The next time I left the ground, I climbed to the top, making it through the first boulder, second long span, third “eye” crux, and fourth heartbreaker move without falling. I gave a whoop of excitement and felt a wave of relief, knowing that I had accomplished a route from my life list - a beautiful line with unique features in one of the most special climbing areas in the world.
*Note to all climbers: The talus field at Flatanger, and at many crags around the world, is filled with banana peels, egg shells, pistachio shells, and other trash. It is not acceptable to throw even organic material at the base of a cliff, as it takes a very long time to decompose. Please pack out your trash, even organic waste!
Lavaredo Ultra Trail: everything is ready for the first La Sportiva edition
Resole your climbing shoes at Arco Rock Star
Browsing from one of these Countries?
Accept and Continue
Cookies are small text files that contain information about your visit to our website and are stored on your computer or any other device able to browse the internet, for example a smartphone or tablet.
We use these cookies to make browsing our site easier, to show you content that is relevant to your needs and interests and to help us speed up your future visits and activities on our website. The cookies assist and simplify the interaction between the user and the site and allow the site to remember your preferences and individual activity, thus saving time and contributing to easier and more efficient browsing. Cookies memorise information about your visit online (for example; language, number of visits and dimensions of text) and aid the implementation of various services (user registration, contents of your shopping cart, subscription to newsletters or updates on products, etc.).
Cookies are also employed to create anonymous group statistics that let us analyse how visitors use our site, allowing us to improve the structure, content and services of this site.
Any services present that do not offer complete anonymity will be found in the third-party cookies list and you may deny them consent, safeguarding your privacy.
This site makes use of three different types of cookies:
These cookies ensure that the site works in a correct and fluid manner: they allow you to navigate between pages, share content, they memorise your sign-in credentials making access to the site faster and they keep your preferences and credentials active during browsing and purchasing. Without these cookies we would be unable to provide the services which motivate the user to access this site.
2. Statistical cookies
These cookies help us understand how our users browse the site and navigate the online store so that we may assess and improve its performance and create content that best matches our visitors' preferences. For example, these cookies show us which are the most and least visited pages, how many people access the site, how long is spent on the site by most users and how they find us online. With this information we can find out which are the best features and which could be improved, while ensuring that site content is uploaded quickly and displayed appropriately. The information these cookies collect is anonymous and not associated with any of the user's personal data. These functions on our site are managed by third-party service providers who render the data anonymous and untraceable to any single individual.
These cookies are distributed by third parties and not directly controlled or under the control of Zerogrey. Zerogrey does not therefore accept liability regarding the use of any information collected by the owners of these third-party cookies.
The cookies provided by such third parties can offer advanced features as well as more information and personalisation. These include the ability to share content across social network platforms and to maintain a personalised online site experience on the basis of any preferences expressed on pages previously visited. These services are for the most part offered by external operators. If you browse using an account or if you use third-party services on other websites, these may be able to track a user who has visited our site. The use of the data collected by these external operators through cookies must adhere to the respective privacy policies that you will find on the link copied below. Third-party profiling cookies are identified by the names of their respective operators in the list indicated below which also contains the tools for managing or disabling them.
You can change the settings for downloaded cookies on your computer or mobile device through the appropriate feature on your browser. You may also block the installation of third-party cookies and remove previously installed cookies, including those that define your cookie preferences that you may have may have set here. To check or adjust the settings on your browser you need to consult the instruction manual or your browser's help window.
The instructions regarding cookies for the most widely-used browsers are available here
Chrome : https://support.google.com/chrome/answer/95647?hl=en&p=cpn_cookies
Internet Explorer: http://windows.microsoft.com/it-it/windows-vista/block-or-allow-cookies
Alternatively, to disable some or all cookies you can use the following tools.
Disabling our cookies may affect your browsing experience, diminish efficiency in accessing certain parts of the site and erase preferences for future visits to the site.
Remember to set the browser on your devices in a coherent manner so that each one may be adjusted to reflect your cookie preferences.
Further detailed information on cookie features and how to enable or disable them on most browsers is available online at www.aboutcookies.org or http://www.allaboutcookies.org/privacy-policy.htm. For in-depth information and assistance with cookies used for advertising purposes visit http://www.youronlinechoices.com/it/