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Jacopo Larcher - Strange Heroes
After few days from the epic achievement signed by Adam Ondra, Flatanger has been the scenery for the Paige Claassen's latest realization. After one month working on the route, the La Sportiva ambassador has sent "Eye of Odin", 8c+.
As I clipped the chains on my summer project, I felt a surge of confidence. “I’m back!”, I thought, making a mental note of my progress since tearing the ligaments in my ankle in February. The recovery had taken longer than expected, and I’d spent the last few months trying to rebuild my fitness and mental stamina – after all, it’s difficult to push your limits when you’re afraid of falling on a fresh injury. Street Fighter, an 8c+ near my home in South Africa, marked a big step in my rehabilitation. Suddenly, I realized I needed a fall project, perhaps a trip with a challenging objective.
I scoured the internet, looking for a unique location with world class sport climbing and dreamy September conditions. After clicking on a link of Ethan Pringle making the First Ascent of Eye of Odin, an 8c in Flatanger, Norway, I knew I’d found not only my location, but also my project. I found a few partners and booked tickets right away.With only a month to prepare for my trip to Flatanger, I knew I would need to take some dramatic steps to be in top form. Flatanger’s steep and thuggy routes are my anti-style. I’m a better technical climber, and not particularly strong in the big muscle groups. I’m terrible at toe hooks, knee bars, and campus style moves. So, I wrote out a strict training schedule, which was very different from my typical approach – weighted pullups, TRX workouts, and a toe hooking routine I made up for a home wall (see Training Video).
When I arrived to Flatanger and tried my first few routes, I felt surprisingly well prepared. My training had paid off, and I felt dynamic, confident, and motivated. The fine grain granite gneiss compound created the most inviting features and holds. I was in climbing paradise.I quickly set to work on my primary objective, Odin’s Eye. Featuring 4 distinct cruxes, I had my work cut out for me. The first crux is a powerful boulder featuring a small iron-cross campus move and a high heel. During the third week of working the route, I strained my hamstring on the aggressive heel hook, and had to take care not to injure it more permanently, thus hindering the rest of my trip. The second crux is a long span from a wet under cling, just before the obvious “eye” feature. While a few people questioned whether or not I would be able to span the move, I knew that my long ape index of 13cm would be sufficient. Plus, I don’t believe in the excuse “it’s too reachy”, only “not enough power”. The fourth crux is a powerful stab from a bad slopey under cling. It’s not too difficult, but I knew it could be possible to fall here, at the very end, after climbing through 3 much more difficult cruxes. It could be a heartbreaker finish.
The third crux gave me the most trouble. A bicep intensive under cling traverse with an elaborate foot sequence leads to two powerful moves on poor holds. The 45 degree angle combined with 2 knee-bars on poor smears, a tricky toe hook, and more bicep moves could be translated to “my worst nightmare”. It took me two weeks just to do all the moves, and another week to be able to link them together. But things still felt desperate and low percentage, so I began analyzing the finer details.My left foot played a crucial role in the third crux. I needed to knee-bar with my toe on a very small smear, and couldn’t risk it slipping. I needed 100% confidence in that smear. The rock in Flatanger is almost like a fine sandstone, so I knew a no-edge climbing shoe would be perfect, as the rounded toe is much more trustworthy on smears. I chose the Genius because the laces cinch tight around my narrow foot. I used a right toe hook on a positive but precise under cling. During my toe hook training, the Skwama were by far my favorite, because the toe hooking rubber comes much farther up the shoe, and there are no laces in the way.In the end, a Genius on the left and a Skwama on the right was the perfect combo. After unlocking this beta and learning the exact angle at which I needed to place my toe hook, I was ready to send. I came close a few days prior, in perfect conditions, but I felt nervous and put too much pressure on myself, ultimately falling simply because I didn’t try hard enough.
On Tuesday, there was very little wind, which meant the route was wetter than normal, and all the under clings leading up to the second crux were wet. However, I knew it was still possible, and that if I could get through this section, the second half of the route would be dry. I clipped up the route to dry the holds as best I could with a t-shirt, toilet paper, and chalk, then lowered and rested.The next time I left the ground, I climbed to the top, making it through the first boulder, second long span, third “eye” crux, and fourth heartbreaker move without falling. I gave a whoop of excitement and felt a wave of relief, knowing that I had accomplished a route from my life list - a beautiful line with unique features in one of the most special climbing areas in the world.
*Note to all climbers: The talus field at Flatanger, and at many crags around the world, is filled with banana peels, egg shells, pistachio shells, and other trash. It is not acceptable to throw even organic material at the base of a cliff, as it takes a very long time to decompose. Please pack out your trash, even organic waste!
Resole your climbing shoes at Arco Rock Star
Earth day: a solidary walk with Aquila Basket, Sportler and La Sportiva
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