SUBSCRIBE THE NEWSLETTER AND GET FREE SHIPPING ON YOUR FIRST ORDER AND STAY INFORMED
WHO WE ARE
La Sportiva 90th Anniversary Storytelling
Free shipping to Europe for all orders above € 180 (or equivalent).
La Sportiva ambassador James Pearson about his latest trad route freed in South of France "Le Voyage"
La Sportiva ambassador James Pearson, just came back from a recent trip in the US with her wife / partner in climb Caroline Ciavaldini, ha sent the last week his latest big project at Annot in the South of France. He has called it Le Voyage, and with its its , E10 /7° is one of the hardest routes he has ever done, “the best new Trad route I have ever established”
“Climbing began in Annot back in the 1980’s with a series of steep, chipped sport climbs on the boulders just behind the train station. Later on with the boulder boom of the 90’s and early 00’s quickdraws and ropes were replaced by crashpads, and the numerous boulders laying on the steep forest floor were brushed and developed to give hundreds of problems. It wasn’t until 2005 That the first serious Trad developments started to take place. Perfect finger, hand, and fist cracks were unearthed from below the often dense vegetation; a monstorous effort from a few steadfast locals that 12 years later has seen Annot develop as the premiere Trad hotspot of France.
I know my dream line is out there somewhere, and I often go through the same motions for each new area I visit. I feel excitement on first seeing all that new rock from a far, planning line after line up big blank faces and trying to decipher which areas are worth searching closer on foot. Later I feel overwhelmed at the impossible prospect of checking every face, or every boulder, all this before I even get on a rope to really check out the walls. Finally comes disappointment, for although I often find great things, they are never perfect, and never correspond to exactly what I am searching for. Trad is beautiful, and natural, but it can also be fickle. You need both holds, and gear in perfect harmony, just enough but not too much, and either one of these can quickly throw off the balance. The amount of almost perfect lines are too many to count. It’s easy to blame the rock, but I too have to take some of the responsibility. My vision for my dream line is very specific, and to some extent ever evolving. Sometimes, just for a moment I catch myself wondering if I really want to find this thing at all.
For the most part Annot was like all the others. A beautiful area full of amazing trad routes, with enough to keep most climbers entertained for weeks, months , or years. There were a lot of big impressive walls that were just impossible to climb, and a few short, really hard but possible lines, tucked away in tight corners or passing just too close to other routes. Strangely however, there was one exception…
The most obvious wall in one of the easiest to access, most visually impressive areas, held a single, incredible line that worked from bottom to top. Slap bang in the middle of the “Chambre du Roi”, a gently overhanging face is split by a single, discontinuous crack that soars almost 40 meters from the floor. Where the crack runs out, perfect pockets take its place, with just enough small, fiddly gear to make it justifiable.
It took me 5 days to piece it all together, and from the first day where I couldn’t even understand the moves, to the last day, running it out in hope of a sticking the last jug, the whole process was quite a journey. It was complicated to work out, pumpy to climb, and is certainly one of the hardest Trad routes I have ever done, but instead of getting bogged down by difficulty, I’d love to focus on the quality of the line for once. Just look at this thing! Its beautiful, a real marvel of nature. Take away any one hold in several places on the route and it just wouldn’t work. It’s incredible that it even exists, anywhere, but especially in Annot where so many of the other big faces are just blank. “Le Voyage” is definitely the best new Trad route I have ever done.
I’d like to thank Tom Randall for telling me about this project several years ago – sorry Tom, I should have listened to you. Even more thanks should go to Lionel Catsoyannis for cleaning the line and giving me all the help with gear and beta that he could, but also for the hundreds of other routes he, and friends have cleaned and climbed all over this mountain.
So yes, I know Le Voyage, E10 -7a might not make a lot of sense to non-British Trad climbers, but it’s really the best I can do. I just hope that curious people can look past all that, and just go and try it because it’s a wicked line. It protects well enough, its steep so you can take big falls, and most of all its really, really fun. What are you waiting for?”
Comano Ursus Extreme Trail: al secondo dei tre appuntamenti siglati CUET, vincono Romeri e Gionghi nella 58km, Trenti e Scanziani nella 34.
Rock Master 2018: questo weekend il meglio dell'arrampicata si sposta ad Arco assieme a La Sportiva
Browsing from one of these Countries?
Accept and Continue
Cookies are small text files that contain information about your visit to our website and are stored on your computer or any other device able to browse the internet, for example a smartphone or tablet.
We use these cookies to make browsing our site easier, to show you content that is relevant to your needs and interests and to help us speed up your future visits and activities on our website. The cookies assist and simplify the interaction between the user and the site and allow the site to remember your preferences and individual activity, thus saving time and contributing to easier and more efficient browsing. Cookies memorise information about your visit online (for example; language, number of visits and dimensions of text) and aid the implementation of various services (user registration, contents of your shopping cart, subscription to newsletters or updates on products, etc.).
Cookies are also employed to create anonymous group statistics that let us analyse how visitors use our site, allowing us to improve the structure, content and services of this site.
Any services present that do not offer complete anonymity will be found in the third-party cookies list and you may deny them consent, safeguarding your privacy.
This site makes use of three different types of cookies:
These cookies ensure that the site works in a correct and fluid manner: they allow you to navigate between pages, share content, they memorise your sign-in credentials making access to the site faster and they keep your preferences and credentials active during browsing and purchasing. Without these cookies we would be unable to provide the services which motivate the user to access this site.
2. Statistical cookies
These cookies help us understand how our users browse the site and navigate the online store so that we may assess and improve its performance and create content that best matches our visitors' preferences. For example, these cookies show us which are the most and least visited pages, how many people access the site, how long is spent on the site by most users and how they find us online. With this information we can find out which are the best features and which could be improved, while ensuring that site content is uploaded quickly and displayed appropriately. The information these cookies collect is anonymous and not associated with any of the user's personal data. These functions on our site are managed by third-party service providers who render the data anonymous and untraceable to any single individual.
These cookies are distributed by third parties and not directly controlled or under the control of Zerogrey. Zerogrey does not therefore accept liability regarding the use of any information collected by the owners of these third-party cookies.
The cookies provided by such third parties can offer advanced features as well as more information and personalisation. These include the ability to share content across social network platforms and to maintain a personalised online site experience on the basis of any preferences expressed on pages previously visited. These services are for the most part offered by external operators. If you browse using an account or if you use third-party services on other websites, these may be able to track a user who has visited our site. The use of the data collected by these external operators through cookies must adhere to the respective privacy policies that you will find on the link copied below. Third-party profiling cookies are identified by the names of their respective operators in the list indicated below which also contains the tools for managing or disabling them.
You can change the settings for downloaded cookies on your computer or mobile device through the appropriate feature on your browser. You may also block the installation of third-party cookies and remove previously installed cookies, including those that define your cookie preferences that you may have may have set here. To check or adjust the settings on your browser you need to consult the instruction manual or your browser's help window.
The instructions regarding cookies for the most widely-used browsers are available here
Chrome : https://support.google.com/chrome/answer/95647?hl=en&p=cpn_cookies
Internet Explorer: http://windows.microsoft.com/it-it/windows-vista/block-or-allow-cookies
Alternatively, to disable some or all cookies you can use the following tools.
Disabling our cookies may affect your browsing experience, diminish efficiency in accessing certain parts of the site and erase preferences for future visits to the site.
Remember to set the browser on your devices in a coherent manner so that each one may be adjusted to reflect your cookie preferences.
Further detailed information on cookie features and how to enable or disable them on most browsers is available online at www.aboutcookies.org or http://www.allaboutcookies.org/privacy-policy.htm. For in-depth information and assistance with cookies used for advertising purposes visit http://www.youronlinechoices.com/it/