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Lapsus: Stefano Ghisolfi and the first Italian 9b narrated exclusively by EpicTV


On the 2nd of November the Piedmontese climber and ambassador for La Sportiva signed the first proposed 9b route in Italy. We were with him in Andonno when "Lapsus" was closed for the first time entering by right into the history of national climbing, and this is the video that narrates the event.

Ranked ninth in the last World Cup and 2015 Italian champion, Stefano Ghisolfi was born in Turin on 18th February 1993. Just four days earlier, at Andonno (CN), "Boredom" had been freed, the first route in Italy to be graded 8c +. Twenty-three years later in that same crag, Stefano has retraced the steps that had once been climbed by Severino Scassa and put his signature on "Lapsus", the route that will go down in history as the first proposed 9b route in Italy.

Lapsus, or "failure to act" or "confused" as the word may be defined in encyclopaedias. Yet the concatenation of 70 movements studied by Stefano in the famous Andonno Amphitheatre, is extremely logical:
Tried for about a year, the new line proposed by the climber from Turin, crosses all the most famous crag routes, starting from Noi (8b + freed by Andrea Gallo) and ending on Anaconda (the 8c signed Matteo Gambaro), on a journey alternating difficult passages and awkward rest points, where strength is vital for interpreting the route.

This great success is not only the result of a year of attempts at closing the route, but of a life spent repeating every single route in the sector, and the proposal made by the climber comes with a simple justification: "I have never climbed anything harder in my life." Stefano Ghisolfi, who, over the past two years has collected the three big 9a + routes Biographie, Demencia Senil and Le moustache qui fâche, defines Lapsus as something even more complex, and he invites the big names in climbing to repeat the route so as to remove all doubt .

This is the video. This is the story.
 



What: "Lapsus" 9b
Where: Andonno, Cuneo, Italy
Who: Stefano Ghisolfi
When: 2.11.2015
Foto: Paolo Sartori (c)