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Ice like Sugar – the story of Mt. Reaper, first Ascent in Alaska


A video tells the first ascent of Mount Reaper, Alaska, made last May by La Sportiva ambassadors Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr.

Last May, the two Austrian climbers Hansjörg Auer and Michael “Much” Mayr, left their home with three different projects in mind. All of theme, about only one mountain: the Mount Reaper.  
Located in the Neacola Range, the mountain rises with a stunning 750m high north face from the massive Pitchfork Glacier. The summits of this range are not as high as those in the nearby Revelation Mountains or the well known Ruth Gorge, but therefore the glaciers are going down lower which implies that the faces are still up to 1000 meters high.
The unstable weather that this range is well known for, accompanied the climbers from the start which after a warm up on a rock pillar next to their base camp, an intense storm kept theme camp-bound. What followed, said Auer, were more than three days in the white out, constantly freeing the tent from snow. Living on the glacier, 100 of kilometers away from civilization, demands a strong belief, and a great friendship to keep high spirits and good vibes. To further complicate the matter the temperatures were higher than they expected, but anyway after a day of checking out the approach, the two climbers decided to give it a go, and with a super light equipment and a limited time, they did the climb in a 12-hour push from camp to summit and back.
Lots of spindrift due to strong winds higher up and some really challenging steep pitches with bad protection challenged theme a lot.
“While I was leading the crux, where a fall was out of the question” said Auer, “ it suddenly occurred to me that this route might be in the “knife-edge” category”.

more on: hansjoerg-auer.at