Your cart ()
Alexander gave up his scientific career as physicist and followed then his passion for the mountains. Mountaineering in all of its various kinds and disciplines led him to the most important mountain ranges of the world and his willpower enabled him again and again to fulfill his dreams on the very cutting edge of what is possible.
The world´s first 9a+ in sportclimbing, the first 8c routes in alpine terrain, the freeclimbs and speed records on Yosemite´s Bigwalls, the first free ascent of the famous “Eternal Flame” on Trango Nameless Tower, the giant Westface of the 7108 meter high Latok II, 8000-meter peaks as well as the free solo ascent of the mythical Direttissima on Cima Grand are the highlights of his climbing life.
Alexander and his brother Thomas are worldwide known as alpinists and with more than 2000 conferences and keynote speeches they know how to fascinate not just passionated mountaineers. The highlights of their career got no less then 100 covers on the various international climbing magazines as well as an endless number of publications in general interest magazines. For their movie “To the Limits” they received in 2007 the Pierrot as well as in 2008 the Bavarian Sport Award.
1) Who is your favorite climbing partner and why?
My brother for obvious reasons and Fabi Buhl because of his young spirit!
2) Which is the first La Sportiva shoes/boot you used?
…it was by then in the late 80´s the “Mariacher".
3) What is your favorite climbing/mountaineering shoes?
Mythos and G5.
4) What is the mountain you would like to see at least one time in your life?
Tre Cime di Lavaredo.
5) Do you take part to a charity or cultural project?
I am on the board of “Karakoram Aid” since more than 20 years: www.himkara.de .
6) What's in the air?
In these days it is hard to predict what will be allowed and what will be possible, but basically I have the best mountain range in front of my house door: the Alps! It won't get boring.
- 1996 Open Air, first 9a+ worldwide - Tyrol
- 1996 El Capitan, Free Rider, Salathé, Golden Gate, Corazon, El Nino, Zodiac, 1st free ascents - Yosemite
- 2007 Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, “Pan Aroma”, 8c - Dolomites, Italy
- 2008 Holtanna, West Face - Antarctica
- 2018 Choktoi Ri, 6166m, South Buttress, 56 pitches, 6b+/A1, first ascent - Pakistan
- 2020 Punta Girardili, Oiskura, 8a+, first redpoint ascent - Sardinia