GET FREE SHIPPING
CLIMBING PRO COLLECTION
WHO WE ARE
Jacopo Larcher - Strange Heroes
La Sportiva meets Angelika Rainer for a chat about her latest big achievement: with her ascent of "A line above the Sky", the South Tyrolean climber has become the first woman in the world to climb D15 and, in doing so, she has equalled the maximum difficulty ever climbed by her male counterparts.
How would you describe “A line above the Sky” at Tomorrow's World? The ‘ A line above the sky’ route is situated at the Tomorrow’s World Dry-tooling cliff, at Malga Ciapela in the Dolomites. English mountaineer Tom Ballard, first freed the cliff and carried out the first ascent of the routes. Tomorrow’s world is a large cave and “A line above the sky” crosses the entire overhang, with 40 metres of horizontal climbing. It can be said that it is currently the best place for Dry-tooling with some of the hardest routes in the world, having as many as 8 routes graded between D13 and D15.
Which is the key passage/the most difficult section of the climb?There is no real key passage, but there are 5 very long moves, distributed all along the route. It is constantly overhanging and there are no good resting places and so it becomes very difficult to keep the level of strength required to face the last long move, which is the penultimate of 27 quick draws.
How much did you train for this project?When I first tried the route in February 2016, compared to my male colleagues, I was barely able to reach these long moves due to my limited arm span. This winter I trained a lot on long moves, as they are also required for women in the World Cup. Returning to Tomorrow’s World, this February I immediately felt the benefit of all that training.
You know Tom Ballard: did he give you any advice on how to tackle the route? It was Tom Ballard who invited me to Tomorrow’s World to try his routes, an invitation which I accepted with great pleasure, also because I was happy to finally have such hard projects so close to home, after having travelled as far as Canada and Colorado to put myself to the test on some of today’s hardest routes. Tom did not give me any real advice, because our climbing styles are so different, but he always encouraged me and he has always believed in me, just like my partner Marco, who helped me with specific training.
Do you think it is possible to climb higher than D15?I think it is possible to make even harder moves, maybe on more delicate holds. One often tends to think that longer moves are the only difficulty, but this is not so, as this discipline becomes more and more technical everyday, other types of moves can elevate the grade of the route too: for example open or very insidious lateral movements, where not only resistance is needed, but also a deeper understanding of how to tackle these specific passages. It is important to train constantly and always have the best climbing equipment at hand.
Dry-tooling or ice climbing?I like both of them, in the same way that I like climbing on rock in both spring and summer. I would not be able to choose between the different disciplines, because they make my year more varied, keeping my motivation high and presenting me with ever new and challenging projects. Ice climbing is a privilege for just a few weeks a year: Dry-tooling gives me incredible adrenaline: climbing on rock, is my first love, I will never abandon it. In this way I think that I can climb anywhere in the world.
“Being able to become the strongest athlete in the world for dry tooling” is no longer a dream. Do you think it is possible to overcome men in these grades too?Being smaller and with a reduced arm span compared to my male colleagues, makes many moves much more difficult for me. I am therefore extremely happy that with this climb I have entered into that close circle of athletes who have achieved this grade in Dry-tooling. I will constantly try to improve, competing with myself more than with other men and women.
How important is it to use your feet correctly on a route? The correct use of the feet is essential. Even if I used many ‘Yaniri’ and ‘Figure4’ to do the moves, it is essential to position your feet in a way that you are able to sling hook. Not all movements are easier with the Yaniro. I did three key moves with a Yaniro and 2 key movements by pushing down on my feet. I believe that there is no one style of dry-tooling that prevails over another, all of them are essential to climb at these grades.
Resole your climbing shoes at Arco Rock Star
Earth day: a solidary walk with Aquila Basket, Sportler and La Sportiva
Browsing from one of these Countries?
Accept and Continue
Cookies are small text files that contain information about your visit to our website and are stored on your computer or any other device able to browse the internet, for example a smartphone or tablet.
We use these cookies to make browsing our site easier, to show you content that is relevant to your needs and interests and to help us speed up your future visits and activities on our website. The cookies assist and simplify the interaction between the user and the site and allow the site to remember your preferences and individual activity, thus saving time and contributing to easier and more efficient browsing. Cookies memorise information about your visit online (for example; language, number of visits and dimensions of text) and aid the implementation of various services (user registration, contents of your shopping cart, subscription to newsletters or updates on products, etc.).
Cookies are also employed to create anonymous group statistics that let us analyse how visitors use our site, allowing us to improve the structure, content and services of this site.
Any services present that do not offer complete anonymity will be found in the third-party cookies list and you may deny them consent, safeguarding your privacy.
This site makes use of three different types of cookies:
These cookies ensure that the site works in a correct and fluid manner: they allow you to navigate between pages, share content, they memorise your sign-in credentials making access to the site faster and they keep your preferences and credentials active during browsing and purchasing. Without these cookies we would be unable to provide the services which motivate the user to access this site.
2. Statistical cookies
These cookies help us understand how our users browse the site and navigate the online store so that we may assess and improve its performance and create content that best matches our visitors' preferences. For example, these cookies show us which are the most and least visited pages, how many people access the site, how long is spent on the site by most users and how they find us online. With this information we can find out which are the best features and which could be improved, while ensuring that site content is uploaded quickly and displayed appropriately. The information these cookies collect is anonymous and not associated with any of the user's personal data. These functions on our site are managed by third-party service providers who render the data anonymous and untraceable to any single individual.
These cookies are distributed by third parties and not directly controlled or under the control of Zerogrey. Zerogrey does not therefore accept liability regarding the use of any information collected by the owners of these third-party cookies.
The cookies provided by such third parties can offer advanced features as well as more information and personalisation. These include the ability to share content across social network platforms and to maintain a personalised online site experience on the basis of any preferences expressed on pages previously visited. These services are for the most part offered by external operators. If you browse using an account or if you use third-party services on other websites, these may be able to track a user who has visited our site. The use of the data collected by these external operators through cookies must adhere to the respective privacy policies that you will find on the link copied below. Third-party profiling cookies are identified by the names of their respective operators in the list indicated below which also contains the tools for managing or disabling them.
You can change the settings for downloaded cookies on your computer or mobile device through the appropriate feature on your browser. You may also block the installation of third-party cookies and remove previously installed cookies, including those that define your cookie preferences that you may have may have set here. To check or adjust the settings on your browser you need to consult the instruction manual or your browser's help window.
The instructions regarding cookies for the most widely-used browsers are available here
Chrome : https://support.google.com/chrome/answer/95647?hl=en&p=cpn_cookies
Internet Explorer: http://windows.microsoft.com/it-it/windows-vista/block-or-allow-cookies
Alternatively, to disable some or all cookies you can use the following tools.
Disabling our cookies may affect your browsing experience, diminish efficiency in accessing certain parts of the site and erase preferences for future visits to the site.
Remember to set the browser on your devices in a coherent manner so that each one may be adjusted to reflect your cookie preferences.
Further detailed information on cookie features and how to enable or disable them on most browsers is available online at www.aboutcookies.org or http://www.allaboutcookies.org/privacy-policy.htm. For in-depth information and assistance with cookies used for advertising purposes visit http://www.youronlinechoices.com/it/