Tomas Franchini, March 9th 1989, Madonna di Campiglio (Trento), Italy. Alpinist, Mountain Guide and Ski Instructor. I started my alpinist career after several years of competitive alpine ski racing. I discovered that the ‘true mountain’ was what I was looking for and it was the place I felt at home. So I started to explore it in all its forms and in all its seasons: rock climbing, ice climbing, free ride, big wall and international expeditions outside of Europe. The place I live offers a variety of terrains for a multitude of alpine activities – in fact I first started climbing the mountains at my front door, Gruppo Brenta and Presanella, then moved further afield to Trentino and the Alps. My first international expedition outside of Europe was in Patagonia in 2012. Since then, I have tried to organize an international expedition every year in places where I can be rewarded by the alpinist activities, adventure and culture. Initially I dedicated my time to replicate routes, but once I tasted the feeling of ‘opening a route’, I couldn’t stop seeking unviolated climbing routes on walls and mountains around the world. My approaching style matters a lot to me. I have a great respect for the nature and the rock of the mountains. When I attempt a first ascent I tried to leave the wall as ‘clean’ as possible, with no trace of my passing - the ‘Alpine Style’. This is the future of alpinism on all walls, even the big ones. Exploring remote places offers me the chance to experience the one thing I cherish the most: living the adventure - I do not seek difficult routes less, but the exploring more. I often choose solo climbing, where the direct contact and ‘confrontation’ with nature is strong and intense. The mountains are not just my passion, they are my work too: I am an Mountain Guide and a ski instructor. My primary base of work is Madonna di Campiglio (Trento, Italy), but if the opportunity comes I work in other areas of the Alps and I organize expeditions outside of Europe.


Which is the first La Sportiva shoes/boot you used?
Miura Laces!

What is your favorite climbing/mountaineering book?
“Encordé mais libre” by Patrick Berhault

What is the mountain you would like to see at least one time in your life?
I love inesplorated mountains. Ogre Mountains!

Do you take part to a charity or cultural project?
I am in the direction of SAT Madonna di Campiglio

What's in the air?
New adventures in wild mountains and on inexplorated walls.

In primo piano

  • 1999 First pair of mountain boots
  • 2013 "Paolo Consiglio" Award for the "Ruleta Trentina" on the Cerro Rincon (Argentina)
  • 2016 "Paolo Consiglio" Award for the "La via dei Trentini" on the Shivling (India)
  • 2017 First ascent on the West Face of the Mt. Edgar (China) by the new The Moon’s Power line in free solo
  • 2018 Piolet d'Or Nomination for "The Moon's Power" (China) and "The White Line of Jiazi Feng" (China)
  • 2019 First ascent on the East Face of the Mt. Lame-She (China) by the new Wild Blood line in Free Solo


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