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Il perfetto giorno libero per Hansjörg Auer? Senza dubbio, free climbing in Dolomiti


L'ambassador La Sportiva Hansjörg Auer ci racconta lo scorso 8 agosto, quando equipaggiato di scarpette, portamagnesio e un piccolo parapendio, è riuscito a scalare senza corde 3 big walls in Dolomiti

Text by Hansjörg Auer

 

On the morning of August 8th 2016, I embarked on my adventure with a few essentials: my small paraglider, a light paragliding harness, my climbing shoes, a jacket, a pair of thin gloves, a headband and my chalk bag. My brother Matthias helped me as a supporter, watched me from the valley ground, looked where I’ve landed after every flight to provide me food and drinks.

In the cave, 15 minutes below Marmolada Southface, we had spent the night. While Matthias was still in his sleeping bag, I started up the “Vinatzer / Messner” and reached Punta Rocca after two hours of climbing. I took my wing flew down and landed on the ski slope above Canazei. The “Abramkante” should be the route on Piz Ciavazes Southface. Around noon I was at the end of this climb and crossed the Sella range by hiking over to Rifugio Pisciadu. There was my second take off. Unfortunately, I already had to land in Corvara. The strong wind didn’t allow me to get any further. I felt already very tired and it was difficult for me to get the concentration to the right point when I started the long hike. Finally, after many hours I reached the start of my last climb “Große Mauer” on Sass dla Crusc Westface. At that moment, I knew that I had already crossed my usual limit. The crux pitch felt not easy anymore and while climbing the famous flake traverse I was yearning for the end of the route. After the final crack, I felt relieved to see Matthias sitting on the rim waiting for me. He looked calm and relaxed, while I felt tired and exhausted. After 15 minutes walking, we reached the summit of Sass dla Crusc together.

Twelve hours, three big faces of the Dolomites, two flights, many meters in the gravel and two brothers who enjoyed the sunset with three cans of beer on the summit of Sass dla Crusc. This was the day I had been thinking about in the past three years.

Facts:

6:15 Start bivouac
6:30 Start Free Solo “Vinatzer/Messner” (800m/UIAA 6+)
8:30 Summit Marmolada Punta Rocca
8:45 Start flight #1
9:15 Start hiking #1
10:45 Start Free Solo “Abramkante” (500m/UIAA 7-)
12:00 End of route
12:00 Start hiking #2 to Pisciadu Hut
13:15 Start flight #2
14:00 Start hiking #3
17:15 Start Free Solo “Große Mauer” (300m/UIAA 7-)
18:00 End of route
18:15 Summit Sass dla Crusc

Approx. 33km of distance, 3600 vertical meters. Combining the three elements of climbing, flying and hiking with a minimum of equipment. Free solo and with a lightweight wing in a 18l backpack on my back (no stashed gear).

 

Photo by: Matteo Mocellin / Storyteller Labs / The North Face 

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