Here is the reprint on an interview of Jenny Lavarda, the young super-promising Italian champion, published in the issue NR 216 of the Rivista della Montagna, September 1998. A different way to get to know better our champions: through their opinions expressed in the past.
Jenny Lavarda, the future goes on.
The young promise of the national sport climbing speaks with enthusiasm about her experience of "playing" in the vertical world.
By Oscar Durbiano
If you meet her on the street you would never think that this nice fourteen-year old hides a true volcano of energy, ready to explode every time there is the occasion to practise the climbing "game". And I speak of "game", because for her it is exacly this, and like this she is living it. It isn't a burden, or even worse, a forcing coming from above, not at all. Jenny is a serene child, happy to live this experience simply because this, in the moment, is her life.
Ideally she embodies the positive image of modern climbing, the image of a simple passion for the sportive activity for itself, crag, climbing wall or competition. All the rest doesn't matter. It is very beautiful to observe family Lavarda in action. Jenny's parents are also fond of climbing and since ever they have been taking their daughter with them to the crags. Today, ten years later, little or nothing has changed in their life habits, except when they have to accompany Jenny to the competitions. Otherwise every Friday night the vertical family gets into the trailer and drives toward the crags. Only new thing in the family routine is represented by the fact that now Jenny must manage alone, it means that her routes begin to be a little too hard for her father Moreno's arms. But no problem for this inconvenience. Moreno continues to climb his routes belayed by Jenny, and vice versa, without any particular complication. We meet Jenny at the base of Erto, one of her favorite crags. It is a cool afternoon in late spring and Jenny has just finished her day in the overhangs. We take advantage of the comfort of the trailer to make a little chat with her and her family. Certainly it is comfortable to have the possibility to use a trailer as a base camp, when you go climbingŠ.
Moreno (the father): I would say yes. In this way we have the same home comforts, independently from the place where we are. I find that it is important to preserve a certain life quality to practise correctly a "particular" life like ours. In the trailer we are able to eat our normal food, we also spare money and if Jenny wishes she can study in peace and make her homework also if she has just stopped climbing. Sure, to drive around with a trailer isn't the most practical thing in the world, but when you get used to it the problems become definitely smaller.
Jenny: I like to go to sleep in the bed in the back when we drive back home, on Sunday night. To drive a car is much more practical, but regarding the comfort, in comparison the car is losing.
When did you begin to climb?
Jenny: five years ago, on the Placche Zebrate in Arco, with my father. For two years I have climbed only easy routes, maximum 5°, also in the mountains. I liked climbing very much straight away, the best thing of it was, that I did it with my daddy. When I was eleven the first turn around, when I met Dennis Marchiori, a promising young boy of Rovereto, in the crag of Crosano. On that day I saw Dennis free climbing an overhanging 6b pitch and I felt, for the first time in my life, a very strong desire to emulate him, to do the same thing.
From that point everything has started.
The explosion of a great passion, therefore, unrestrained.
Jenny: exactly like that. A strong attraction for the whole climbing world, from the crags to the competitions. I like the surroundings very much, the fact that there is a certain friendship at the base of the sportive activity. For example for me it is a great party to go to the Rock Master in Arco, to meet all this people with the same common passion.
Moreno: notice that since 1993 we haven't missed a single Rock Master. Jenny is looking forward to see her stars in action, and we also enjoy
a lot the ambience, that we find still very genuine and natural, almost like a climate of climbing party.
Do you have idols, myths? Who are your favorite climbers?
Jenny: Among the girls I like Liv Sansoz and Muriel Sarkany most.
Among the boys instead I admire a lot François Petit and François Legrand.
Did you ever trained besides climbing?
Only some pull-ups, general work on the big muscles. No reglette, weights, etcŠ Otherwise I climb, both on the artificial wall and in the crags, of course not random, but following a plan.
The reason is because somebody advised you to do so, or it is your personal choice?
Moreno: I experienced a sportive youth with big satisfactions, in cycle racing. I learned on my own the importance of being followed by doctors to be constantly checked by somebody who helps you not to make mistakes and to preserve your body in the best possible way.
I would say that this is a fundamental aspect, almost crucial, in an athlete's life. This thing can seem banal for somebody, but I assure you that many people are skeptical when I confirm the importance of a medical control during a sportive activity. From my point of view, to practise sport at a certain level without medical control is like car racing without a good mechanic. The doctors, just to make an example, have always advised us not to train with weights or exercises in general that could compromise the regular development of Jenny. They have always insisted on the fact that you shouldn't overload fingers and joints, at least during the growth of the child. I repeat it: these are important aspects that are too often neglected to make place to the instinct, that in certain occasions can have the opposite effect of the one intended.
Who are the people who take care of you?
Jenny: from the beginning I have been followed by Davide Battistella and Costantino Cipolloni. The first one until some time ago was responsible for the junior team. Doctor Cipolloni instead is still the medical responsible of the FASI. I own them a lot, particularly regarding the base foundation. Without doubt their advice was useful to avoid mistakes that I would have taken with me in the future life and that I am happy to have avoided for the moment.
When did you begin to climb routes of a certain difficulty?
Jenny: the first 7a were Ovomaltina at Specchio di Altlantide in Muzzerone and All'inferno e ritorno in the Cinque Torri near Cortina. This in 1995. The following year I climbed the first 7b, Ricordati di Chicco in Campo Solagna (VI), while the first 7c was Supervit, in Erto, last year.
Do you prefer climbing on sight o to work routes?
Jenny: Usually I don't work routes. At the most a few tries, diluted during the day, on lines that stimulate me particularly. If I don't succeed in redpointing it, I try to remember it well, to go back when I am better trained, when I am in a better form. But this happens seldom. Normally
I prefer to climb always on sight on unknown routes. Every weekend in fact, if possible, we try to change always crag: it is more fun!
How much time do you spend for climbing in your life?
Jenny: A lot for sure, but in an equilibrate way, without neglecting other fundamental aspects like the school. I live "climbing" as leisure time and I interpret it like this. During the week, in the late afternoon-evening, we go climbing on the artificial wall with Daddy and my friends. In the weekends we drive somewhere else, crags or competitions. Until now I was able to let all things go together well. In school I have always had good results and I like learning, it is absolutely not a sacrifice for me. Next year I will begin the High School, I will attend an accounting school.
In climbing circles there is lot of rumors about the magnificence of your private climbing wall: can you tell us more about it?
Jenny: from my point of view it is very beautiful and fun! I go there with a group of friends, among them Dino Lagni, Lisa Benetti, Davide Zavagnin and Gianluca Cogo.
Moreno: with some friends we have rented a shed and inside we built walls with many different angles of inclination. At the moment we have about 250-300 mq, a few thousand holds and we are still enlarging it. I find that the wall is fundamental to be able to make a specific and functional training, particularly for people who can climb outside only during the weekends and the holidays, like we do.
Which kind of work do you make on the wall?
Jenny: usually I try the circuits set by Daddy or the others. Afterwards, depending on the training period, I make different works, based on power, with bouldering, endurance and stamina.
Moreno: I find that it is very important to climb also routes prepared by other people, because in this way the work is more complete. We have a test-route, very difficult for Jenny, that we use to measure her level of training.
You seem to me a quite determined girl, with clear ideas and this in spite of being so young. Do you have particular goals for "your" climbing?
Jenny: Above all, I want to do well, in general. The dream is to be able to climb an 8a route, if possible here in Erto, that is also my favorite crag. Then I would like to reach also some good competition results, in both junior and senior categories.
How do you feel during the competitions, now that you begin to compare yourself to the "senior"? Are you a little excited or you don't care at all?
Jenny: Well Š I would say rather excited, particularly the first times. When you start climbing the route, after a few moments, everything is forgotten, at least until they let you down again.
Moreno: from my point of view she is more frightened with the foreign climbers, particularly the French women. Think that the night before an international competition, she has always problems to fall asleep, she is very emotional and feel the tension. But after the competition she is always happy for the experience, apart from the results.
What do they think in the school about your sportive activity?
Jenny: for my classmates it is a normal thing. For them I am just a friend, who in the leisure time makes climbing competitions, like another makes ski races. The gymnastic teacher instead doesn't approve much my activity, he hasn't a great consideration for climbing as a sport for itself. For him "sport" is athletics and nothing else.
How are you in the other sports? Which note do you have in Physical Education in school?
Everything is all right, for this. I appreciate sport in general, both athletics and team sports. I dislike only cycle racing. This year I got the note "very good" as global note in Physical Education.

BOX
Who is Jenny Lavarda
Height: 160 cm
Weight: 38 kg
Born: Marostica (Vi), 22 January 1984
Studies: middle school, first year of accounting school
Best results in crags: 7b+ on sight, Super Mickey in Ceüse (F).
7c+ worked, Ertana in Erto, Supergrimpe, 8a in Pian Schiavaneis (Tn)
Best competition results: 1° International under 15 in L'Argentiere La Bessèe (F), in '95.
2° International Youth competition in Marina di Ravenna, in '97
1° Italian Youth Championship always in Marina di Ravenna, in '98
2° Overall ranking Coppa Italia '98
1° Italian Championship '98
3° Youth World Championship '98
2° Europa Youth Cup '98
1° Coppa Italia Difficulty '99
1° Coppa Italia Bouldering '99
1° Italian Championship '99
5° Youth World Championship '99