By Oscar Durbiano

On 27 January 2000 Stevie Haston succeeded on The empire strikes back,
M10+/M11, today the world's harder mixed climb. The new ascent discovered and equipped in Val Valleile, near Cogne (Aosta) surpasses a new barrier in the ice climbing difficulty scale. Before The empire strikes back the hardest route was the famed X Files, M10, always in Val Valleile and free climbed by Haston two years ago. The empire strikes back, its name coming from the famous movie saga Star Wars, is a big overhang, 50% covered by rock and ice. The entire route counts five pitches. The first two are definitely the hardest ones. From a technical point of view the first pitch is rated M9, the second one, the key pitch, M10+/M11. After we have a variation of the third pitch, 5° on ice. The fourth pitch is 4°, while the fifth pitch is 5° again. We speak of variation of the third pitch because the big in the void suspended icicle, rated 7° on ice, unfortunately has collapsed before freeing entirely the route. At its place it's possible to climb an easier variation.
Recently the route has been repeated by the other world phenomenon in mixed ice climbing, Italian Mauro "Bubu" Bole, who has confirmed the route's beauty and difficulty.  

BOX

Who is Stevie Haston

Height : 173 cm

Weight: from 59 to 70 kg, average weight  65 kg

Born in : Londra, il 12.05.1957

Domicile : Chamonix (F)

Civil Status : living together with Laurence Gouault, climbing and life partner

Profession : technical consultant and alpinist

Best performances on ice: first ascent of The empire strikes back,
M10+/M11 and X Files , M10 in Lilas in Val Valeille, near Cogne (Ao).
Welcome to the Machine, M9 and 009, M8+/M9, both in Valsavaranche (Ao).
Repetition of Amphibian, M9 (ex M10) in Vail in Colorado (USA).
Solo ascent of Les Compères, 7+ always in Valsavaranche.

Best performance in mountaineering: several solo climbs in Mont Blanc, among which a winter ascent of the Cassin on the Jorasses Walker Spur, all free and without self-belay

Best performance in sport climbing: five 8a routes on sight, worked 8c (Le Plafond, a Volx )

Best performance in mountain rock climbing : 1° redpoint of Sans Liberté, 8b/c, on Pic Adolphe Rey, in Mont Blanc area.