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First competition of the
season, organised by the German Federation in the Frankenhalle, ideal venue for this kind
of meetings. As in the World Championship in Geneva 1995 and in some private Masters like
Arco and Serre Chevalier, the general results were based on the performance in a
"on-sight" route and a "worked" route. Each coutry had a team of eight
athlets, four women and four men, beside France with eleven people (because they have many
climbers among the 10 best in the world).
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The Italian team was composed by Brenna, Core, Iovane, Marchisio, Benetti and
Giupponi, Lella, Artioli, these last ones chosen through a selection that had taken place
on the climbing wall of Boomerang in Padua a week before. The competition begins on Friday
afternoon, with the quarterfinal. The Italianteam loses three quarter of the women team,
and Giupponi. Good performance of Brenna, Lella and Iovane, also Core qualifies. On the
next day the half-final men's route was too difficult and some big names, like Legrand,
don't make it into the final, around twenty climbers fall with the same holds.
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The French
Laurence reaches the highest point, followed by Vickers, Petit, Brenna, Rakhmetov. Core,
only 10°, is a hold away from the final and Lella is 15°. Good performance of Luisa
Iovane, who is able to finish the half-final route, but she can't take part to the final
because of her results in the previous round and she ends up ninth. The
"on-sight" final takes place in the early afternoon, broadcasted life by German
Television. Liz Sansoz arrives to the start with a little delay and is warned by a
overzealous judge, she climbs a little nervous and not as concentrated as usual. She is
slow and isn't able to clip the last quickdraw before reaching the chain. Muriel Sarkany
and Venera Tcherechneva instead reach the top with a clean ascent, tying for first place. |
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