The model Trango Ice Evo has been tested by the magazine Pareti

In the middle of December 2004 has arrived in the news-stand the issue nr. 42 of Pareti, specialized magazine of the Italian mountain publishing trade. The magazine is bound to the season and thus a wide part of this issue is reserved to the ice-climbing world. In this context, at page 82, has been published a test about a new product, La Sportiva Trango Ice Evo, just out in the best shops specialized in mountaineering.
Here follows the integral text of the test, by the editor of Pareti.

Oscar Durbiano

LA SPORTIVA TRANGO ICE EVO

A test of a new model 2005 of the catalog La Sportiva, a boot dedicated to the ones who really go to the mountains.

As the name itself says, the Trango Ice Evo is a reviewed, slightly changed and, we would say, also improved version of the model that came into the shops last year. It isn’t a question of materials or of adopted technical solutions, but of both things together, although, from the point of view of design, the product maintains a look coherent with the preceding model. We should state beforehand that to realize such a technical product is a very difficult alchemy: a boot that works on the wall like a climbing shoe, that absorbs the impact of hitting with the crampons, that walks well on the trail while being lightweight, insulating, absolutely waterproof, nice to look at….
Let’s start from the weight, we found it to be 1,55 kg per pair… nothing…. An excellent result especially if we consider it combined with the tests of waterproofness and insulation. Because it would be easy to get a lighter boot, just taking away some material, but then it would become harder to save waterproofness and insulation…. Then let’s look at the waterproofness, that is a guarantee on the entire boot, water doesn’t come through; in our tests we have noticed only an increased humidity near some stitching with the empty boot; the warmth of the foot and the presence of the inner sock make it totally negligible. In the dangerous point, at the collar, where snow or water can get in from above, a small gaiter solves the problems almost always. In the case you are walking in deep snow or along a waterfall with running water, an added gaiter will solve every problems, but this is an accessory that this boot lets you often forget. The sling to adjust the gaiter is slightly too long; pull it inside to avoid accidentally hitting it with the crampons.
Regarding the insulation, everything all right: combined with a warm and breathable sock the Trango Ice Evo will stay with you the entire day in condition of normal temperature. The test took place at the end of November 2004, with humid and warm weather for the period, and temperatures never lower than – 5°; not very significant for extreme conditions, but the shape of the toe box lets expect optimum results also with colder temperature. In fact the boot, although evidently designed with climbing in mind, leaves margin of movement in the right points, a guarantee against frostbite.
Where the boot is really state–of-the-art is climbing, both with crampons and on rock, smearing the Vibram sole on the footholds. Great! The feeling of precise edging and even of friction is very near to the one of a medium level climbing shoe, thanks particularly to the hinge system of the ankle, that allows to move the boot practically like a climbing shoe, try it to believe! Thus don’t be worried, neither on the icefalls, nor on mixed routes, if you aren’t able to move properly it is your fault, not of the Trango, that makes perfectly its duty. A part of this functionality is due to the innovative lacing system, that is the most evident change compared with the preceding model. This system, called T.P.L.H System, allows to adjust the boot extremely precisely, and it’s important to notice that if you lace accurately your boot before starting on the trail or the waterfall, your foot will stay well locked for several hours. The problem (and here we are speaking about one of the question marks of the entire production of the sector, not only about this shoe in particular) is to lace properly the boot, especially in very cold conditions, when perhaps you must pull the laces wearing gloves. To facilitate all this there are two lace locks in the middle that make the tension on the lower and upper part independent from each other. If it weren’t possible to lock the lower part before pulling the laces on the ankle, the T.P.L.H system wouldn’t be of much use. We have found a few difficulties only while locking and unlocking the two lace locks that, we repeat, are fundamental for the Trango to give the best of itself. The dimensions of the lace locks are a little small and they work with difficulty if they are dirty. Practical and functional is the new protection of the knot, to avoid the freezing of the lacing in a single block. Last but not least let’s speak about walking, whose comfort and efficacy are usually inversely proportional with the comfort while climbing on a vertical wall. Everything well, beside a slight “step” effect on flat terrain, to which you get quickly used adapting your gait.