KANDERSTEG FOR WOMEN. ANNA TORRETTA’S LAST PERFORMANCES IN EXTREME MIXED CLIMBING
The crag of Kandersteg, in the Berner Oberland, in Switzerland, became famous on January 25, 2003, when the strong ice climber Robert Jasper succeeded in making the first ascent of Vertical Limits, a big overhang of 35 meters, almost an horizontal roof, rated M12. Since then the lonely extreme mixed area has started to see new faces, climbers eager to try the testpieces of the crag. Anna Torretta, an all-around alpinist and dry-tooling lover, couldn’t miss a visit to this ice-climbing sanctuary, discovered during the Christmas holiday. On February 13, 2004 Anna makes the second female ascent of Vertical Limits, two weeks after World Champion Ines Papert. Here she tells us about her experience.
Oscar Durbiano

Mixed climbing in Kandersteg
I just climbed Fontok, M10+, in Innsbruck. I am at home, recovering, with four stitches on a finger, consequence of a nasty fall on the ice axe a few days ago. In these days of forced rest I like to remember the recent period in Switzerland. This winter I spent a lot of days in Kandersteg, the last Mecca of modern dry tooling.
I liked the place from the beginning, may be because I got there first accidentally. After Christmas, in fact, I happened to drive through Gran S. Bernardo. It was a good opportunity to visit the area, because the little train to Kandersteg is not far from the Col, and there were also some Austrian friends of mine on vacation in the area.
I take advantage of the situation and decide to experience something new. The place is wonderful, but the ice conditions aren’t the best. It doesn’t matter. I wish too much to try the Mega Ice, the last piece of devilry designed by La Sportiva for ice climbing, and the new Grivel competition ice axes. I am before the Eiger, in Isenfluh, a typical Swiss village of just a few log cabins. We find a little sunny mixed crag, equipped by Robert Jasper, called “Little Vail”.
To reach it we take the old cable car to Suldwald. There we rent wooden sledges for the approach. We slide down on the sledges, carrying our backpacks. At the first crossing we stop: in front of us we can already see the first icicles hanging under an overhanging cave.
Unfortunately there isn’t much ice here, the overhang is dripping. May be the routes are harder now than when they have been established, I say to myself.
I start anyway. I warm up on White Out, M10. Unfortunately the key hold breaks under my spur. The price of too many Christmas libations? I make another try, but the difficulty isn’t the same any more.
I decide to try the moves of the nearby route, ten overhanging meters called Tomahawk, M10+/M11-. Unfortunately near the route there is an ice pillar, rated 5° and not completely frozen. It suddenly disintegrates and falls to the ground with a terrible noise, due to the mild temperature, letting us literally breathless.
I come back the next day, this time paying a lot of attention to the hanging icicles: I have decided to try Tomahawk again. After a warm up attempt I enchain all moves, until I reach the ice and the coveted rest that exists in the end section, between ice and rock. After a few minutes another couple of swings on the unstable icicle and finally I top out. I climbed the route, and it is the hardest I have ever climbed until now. I am very satisfied with myself.
The next week I go back to the crag, I am a guest of Markus Stofer, strong ice climber and tireless opener of extreme mixed lines in the Berner region.
Markus brings me to Ueschinen, the paradise of modern mixed climbing, and the best European crag, discovered by him during a backcountry skiing trip.
Icicles are hanging everywhere, best rock, perfect overhang. I decide to try Tween Tower, M10. This time it’s very cold, may be too much. The low temperature almost inhibits my movements. But the line is wonderful and its moves are incredible. I am fascinated by the project and decide to continue to work on it. The next day I fall twice at the second to last move. Unfortunately a little ice is missing in the last section. In this condition the route has a few (extreme) moves more.
A two-week pause and I come back again: I love this line so much and I want to bring it home at any price! I clip the quickdraws on the route. Unfortunately the Föhn has melted the icicle where it was possible to rest in the middle of the route. This change makes things more complicated. I start anyway. I am surprised that the first moves feel easy. I continue in a fluid and effective way. I rapidly reach the final section, where paradoxically there is more ice than the last time. Thanks to this fact I am able to get out of the overhang a few moves sooner. Still another move between rock and ice and, also this time, I reach the belay stance!
I still have a question. Which one of the two routes, Tomahawk and Tween Tower, felt harder? It will never be possible to compare the difficulties of mixed climbing with the difficulties on rock. The routes can be rated half a grade more or less, and there can be even a whole grade of difference, because everything depends on the environmental conditions.
Two days later it is time for Reise ins Reich der Eiszwerge, M6+ WI6 E3, established in 1996 by Daniela and Robert Jasper. It is a four-pitch route, with an unpronounceable name for an Italian, and at the time of the first ascent it was one of Europe’s hardest mixed climbs. No bolts! Sometimes it’s good to change!
The end of the story dates back to last week, when, after having taken away the stitches on my finger, together with Mauro “Bubu” Bole and the photo equipment of Andrea Gallo, we drive back to Ueschinen. Thanks to my good shape and a strong motivation I managed to repeat Vertical Limits, the mythical Jasper’s route, but above all, my first M12.
Anna Torretta

P.S.
Ice is a living element, in continuous movement. Icicles, besides growing, also fall down. They are beautiful to look at, but you always have to evaluate their stability, considering the environmental conditions at the time. Utmost attention, therefore, while walking under hanging icicles!
A month ago Maikel Van Sundert, an expert alpinist, died in Ueschinen, because a piece of ice coming from above hit his helmet. A twenty-kilo ice block, falling from 10 meters height, is enough to kill someone. Maikel, we will not forget you.