Vertical exploration in Ala Daglar, Turkey
What can climbers find in Turkey? To have an idea it is sufficient
to read the report of the adventures, vertical and not, of Maurizio
Oviglia, Rolando Larcher and Michele Paissan, just back from their
discovery trip to the Ala Daglar mountain chain (in southern Anatolia).
No doubt: there is a lot, more than a lot of rock in southern
Turkey. And there are fantastic walls. And, last but not least,
there are also good climbers to become friends and to share projects
with. In short: the trio, Rolando + Maurizio + Michele, has found
the possibility to play its best music. The highlights? Surely
the two beautiful (and hard) new ascents: the first one (Uc Muz,
650 meters, 8a max, 7b obligatory) on the big east face of Demirkazik
(3757 m); the second one (Mezza luna nascente, 270 meters, 7c
max, 7a+ obligatory) on the east face of the fantastic Parmakkaya
obelisk (2.880 meters). In short, for the ones who didn’t
know it yet, there is some climbing in Turkey, and a really good
one!
Vinicio Stefanello
Expedition to the Ala Daglar chain (Southern
Anatolia, Turkey)
As sometimes happens in Jazz, where three people from completely
different backgrounds join forces to form a trio, with the aim
of playing just one specific type of music... so we too found
ourselves on the Atlas mountain with the great prospective of
spending 25 days together on the Taghia walls, seeing what would
come of it. From that experience ensued a route which, according
to Arnaud Petit (the only repeater), was one of the best that
he had ever climbed. Two years had passed since then and everyone
of us had been taken in by his own projects.
But when music had to be played the trio didn't hesitate to regroup,
in search of new terrains to express itself. We are interested
in setting up modern hard routes, in unknown areas, where you
have to locate an objective, perhaps without knowing what the
rock will be like, whether there will be rock at all... improvisation
is the name of the game.
After a Morocco slideshow in Turin's Monte dei Cappuccini room
I was approached by Renzo Barbiè, a passionate ski-mountaineer
and globetrotter, who confided "I know of a place like Taghia
in Turkey, I've been skiing there three times... I'll sent you
some photos by email... and then we'll meet up here again and
you'll show me the photos of the new routes you'll establish."
You can imagine the rest, at the start of July we landed at Ankara.
We spent the first days exploring the width and breadth of the
mountain chain, thousands of meters of height difference to explore
the valleys and canyons... to get a general picture of the place...
until, there it is, the wall of our dreams! We established Base
Camp at 2900m and reached the base of the wall but, damn it, there
were no holds, we couldn't ascend where we wanted to. The wall
was 700m high and the main summit towered directly above base
camp... We didn't want to dare too much, attempting a 700m line
meant spending the entire holiday on this face! But we decided
to go for it nevertheless, the other options didn't convince us.
At times rocks whistled down, the environment was similar to that
at altitude, certainly nothing like a crag! But the weather was
splendid, often without a cloud in sight. It was very hot in the
sun and very cold in the shade. This meant T-shirt to down jacket
in less than 15 minutes.
In ten days we finished and freed this outstanding route, reaching
the summit at 17.00 on a fantastically clear and colorful day.
Standing on the 3756m high summit of Demirkazik it truly seemed
as if the world was at our feet! I had a truly memorable day on
the actual redpoint, I didn't make a single mistake and climbed
all 13 pitches free as well. It was one of those days you don't
forget. My malign partners said it was due to my doping, because
the day before I had accidentally switched the stove fuel for
Isostad and drank a swig, much to their delight and my worry...
I've always been a diesel! Rolando and Michele in the meantime
set up a spectacular 7c single pitch, Dead man walking, close
to base camp. Some locals came to watch us at work and attempted
the "negative climb" as they called it.
Just four climbing days to send our line, incredible? Weather
or group magic? We descended with another week of freedom, with
the intention of being tourists at Cappadocia. But this was nothing
for us and we fled once more into the mountains... an irresistible
charm. Word of our route had spread like the speed of light throughout
Turkey, and this is the only place where Turkish climbers can
climb in summer. Two climbers offered us lodging; they were Recep
and Zeynep who lived in a small wooden house at the foot of the
mountains. A small piece of western Istanbul in a peasant’s
village with dusty roads- - the contrast was striking. Rock music,
beer and, if we wanted it, a board to train on... it was like
a dream come true. In the garden the trees were ripe with apricots,
in the morning we had fantastic breakfasts and in the evening
we ate kebabs and salad. Could this be earthly paradise?
With them we decided to repeat the much-feared French route on
the Parmakkaya obelisk. Three repeats in ten years. We thought
it would be a walkover, we had heard about bolted 6c on a French
route (ah, clichés). But instead we encountered bolts every
7/10m and the grades (it seems these were only estimates) were
high in the grade, as was later confirmed by two Swiss climbers
who repeated the route last year. The French, as we were to find
out later, were "only" climbers with 8b and 7b obligatory
under their belt, born and bred beneath Mont Blanc... The difficulties
reach 7b and for the entire route we have to proceed carefully
so as to avoid 20m falls... But we manage to on-sight the route
nevertheless in what turns out to be another memorable day, with
the extremely pleasant Recep and Zeynep. After the summit photos
and a Gaston Rebuffat parody we think it is now really all over
and that we'll spend the last two days lazing beneath the pine
trees. But Rolly stops a bit too often on the path to look at
Parmakkaya. As if in a trance, literally blown over by the beauty
of the obelisk, he cannot go away without it... "OK Rolly,
we'll come, we'll come, but how will we manage to climb up in
just the two remaining days? We know you by now, you're not thinking
of a 6a!"
Two 14-hour days, storm and hail bring us to the slender Parmakkaya
summit, climbing in turns and freeing the pitches the same day,
with some pockets still filled with hail. If this isn't improvisation...
or perhaps its only the exaggerated desire to play the music,
and continue to do so even when the concert is over and the audience
has gone home a while ago. "Thanks again" Recep wrote
by email "for us you were a true revolution..." while
some others in the Turkish cities thought that our bolts on Ala
Daglar were superfluous because "the English don't use them"...
Nothing new therefore, so we talk heatedly about "to bolt
or not to be," ignorant of the bombs in London or Sharm El
Sheik... for once our horizon stops at the mountains just beyond
the door...
Maurizio Oviglia
Expedition’s members
Rolando Larcher (CAAI), Maurizio Oviglia (CAAI), Michele Paissan
Ala Daglar 2005 expedition’s routes
Demirkazik, 3757 m, east face
Uc Muz, 650 m, 8a max, 7b obligatory
Parmakkaya, 2880 m, east face
Mezza luna nascente, 270 m, 7c, 7a+ obligatory
Thanks for the technical support to LA SPORTIVA, NORTH FACE,
KONG and MELLO'S. And thanks to Recep Ince for giving us the bolts
we needed for the second route.