Melloblocco
2005, the event of the century
Val di Mello, 7 and 8 May 2005
The edition 2004 had impressed on the memory of hundreds of enthusiastic
participants, but the Melloblocco 2005 will certainly enter in the
history as the biggest climbing meeting ever realized, the biggest
climbing festival ever organized. The official entrants for the
event were 820. Afterward the organizers stopped to count them.
At the end there were about 1300 boulderers climbing on the rocks
of Val di Mello. Three thousand people, athletes and spectators,
were present. A sensational success, unexpected also for the most
optimistic ones among the organizers. A wonderful story, in short,
that should let us think about it in the future. May be the climbing
world needs new impulses to grow and continue its evolution?
Remarkable also the presence of foreign climbers, coming from over
10 different countries: France, Switzerland, Germany, Slovenia,
Sweden, Netherlands, Venezuela and many others. It has been wonderful
to see all those people sharing the same passion, crowding the meadows
during the two days, happy to have fun together. It was good to
admire the polyvalence of bouldering, that allows families to spend
time together, mothers, children and boulderers; this is may be
the activity that is the most socializing of all, because it imposes
less bonds than others.
It has been wonderful to admire three World Champions (Dulac, Calibani
and Sandrine Levet) comparing themselves with other top athletes.
The show was great, and the Alpine Guides of Lombardia took perfectly
care of the organization. Special thanks to all of them, on behalf
of all participants, for the great gift that also this year they
have been able to give to the bouldering enthusiasts, in collaboration
with the technical sponsors of the event, La Sportiva, Petzl and
Eider.
A wonderful story, in short, that should let us think about it in
the future. May be the climbing world needs new impulses to grow
and continue its evolution? Our friend Vinicio Stefanello, of the
Website Planetmountain, tells us about his experience.
Oscar Durbiano
Impressions from the Melloblocco.
Questions, just as many as the boulder problems you'll
never solve. Rhythms that slowly follow each other, like thoughts
among the clouds. Colors, so many that the eyes bulge to register
them all. The valley is dressed in calm, tranquil color tones.
From the surreal green fields, capped with boulders. To yellow,
yellow, and yellow once again. All identical yet all unique, like
the thousand and one climbers dressed in yellow. And from high
above there's that immobile white, a precipitating line that twists,
cascades and turns. Have you ever seem a waterfall that curves
before straightening out and falling headlong down into the valley?
Have you ever heard water that plays a tune just for you? For
the thousands close to you?
There's something that cannot be grasped
in the eyes of this valley.
Something you perceive and feel in the eyes of who looks at you,
of who tries the moves, who caresses the holds. You try to understand.
But there is nothing to grasp, nothing to be resolved. All you
can do is look. And find the sequence that leads you to the top
of the boulder, perhaps even only in your mind. A thousand plus
glances that cross each other. So many thoughts. So many words.
A thousand plus "hi-how-are-you" interlace, embrace,
find each other once again. And you discover that you still smile,
that the others smile too. And then, how silent it all is! A comforting,
tranquil silence, full of discussions just touched upon but which,
for once, you feel you comprehend, accept. Slow rhythm. Mellow.
Melloslow. Melloblocco for all. For those who enjoy the sun and
for those who slowly walk up the beautiful path the leads into
this Eden of fields and boulders.
Today the boulderers are here...
There were a thousand and one crash pads, all ready to soften
the landings from the innumerable falls. There were a thousand
and one crash pads without a name, free for all. Hands that spotted,
without needing to be asked. All there to protect who was trying
to find their sequence. It was irrelevant who the climber was,
whether the problem was difficult, whether he was a friend or
she was one of the thousand plus. Not too many questions were
asked at the Melloblocco. And the one thousand and more seemed
to be in no hurry whatsoever. They had no time limit, they were
simply driven by the music of the valley.
They are ageless.
The boulderers at the Melloblocco are aged two to sixty. And they
have thousand and more ages. They come from many different countries.
Some have chosen the valley as their home, others see the valley
for the first time. They come in all shapes and sizes (tall, short,
chubby...), climb all grades currently on the bouldering scale
(easy, mid, difficult, impossible...) and all are great because
everything is relative here at the Melloblocco. The mythical figures
are here, those that you've only ever seen in photos. And there
are those who are mythical because you don't understand how they
manage to climb the problem that you (30 kilos lighter, 10 years
younger, and much, much more experienced) can't even begin to
comprehend.
There are many of us yet we don't seem that
many.
Every granite sculpture, every boulder has its own story to tell,
they are all niches for small communities that form, dissolve
and re-form. The corners of this paradise are slowly discovered.
The treasure map is carefully analysed. A beautiful map, as incomprehensible
as the moves that continue to repel you, as clear as the boulder
you've just climbed. The pilgrimage is relentless. Chance meetings
continue. And repeat themselves. And every time is just like the
first.
The air that surrounds the Melloblocco brings
with it whispers, as elusive as rainbows.
Brief flashes from the Melloblocco. Like the smiling spirit of
Simone, who you meet for an instant while he wanders, invisible,
to look at the boulders he's invented. Like the many anecdotes
you'd like to recount. Such as the four youngsters beneath their
boulder problem. The oldest girl starts off first. Handhold, foothold,
just as she lifts off... the smallest girl whispers to the others
"go on, perhaps you'll become world champion..." And
as it happens, the reigning World Champion appears on the scene,
ignorant of what has just happened, glissfully enjoying the sun
in the Valley.
Climbing the boulder problems seems to be
the least important thing,
even if I'm unsure as to whether anyone really knows what is really
important, other than what they really want today. Perhaps it's
that boulder that everyone manages to do, and at the end of the
day you try but fail. Perhaps it's all these people - perhaps
it's this inexplicable calm. This inexplicable kindness, gentleness.
There are no answers to these questions, or perhaps the answers
lie hidden in some unseen problem, untouched, never yet dreamed
of.
One thing is certain after my first trip into the Valley: the
Melloblocco and Val di Mello cannot be forgotten. It's for this
that a thousand and one of us came here.
Vinicio Stefanello
