World and European Championship Ice Boulder
Harald Berger and Ines Papert are the World and European Champions of Ice Boulder. In the Super Final in Val Daone the Austrian and German beat Herbert Klammer from Valle di Tures (Italy) and Natalia Koulikova from Russia. Simon Wandeler from Switzerland and Jenny Lavarda from Italy placed third.

The competition ended with a head to head with two Super Finals. This had been inserted into the official program right from the start, meaning that Papert and Koulikova had to attempt the long journey across the ice roof used for the men’s Final. Berger and Klammer on the other hand had to fight their way up the longest line on the immense structure. The scene was set for something special.

The Women’s Superfinal was practically impossible but Papert, first after the final, interpreted it as classily as ever. She is without a doubt the World Champion, the strongest and most complete, even if the difference on that final route proved to be negligible. After two perfect competition days Ines definitely deserved this victory, Koulikova gets full marks for believing in herself right to the end: it was great to see her fight like a lion.

In the men’s Superfinal Berger fought like a lion too, but he failed to find the key to problem, a pendulum from one stalactite to the next, and after 4 minutes of hanging upside down time ran out and the gong brought him back down to earth.

In the Final Herbert Klammer had been the only athlete to have topped out perfectly on all three problems, as Berger had been stopped just before the top on the second problem after having stepped out of bounds. To the delight of the crowd the 28 year old from Northern Italy came out last, and it was logical that they all hoped for the miracle to happen. But it didn’t, and Klammer fell well beneath Berger’s highpoint. The World and European title went to Harald Berger, masterful here this evening, while Herbert Klammer returned home an incredibly happy, and somewhat incredulous, second. This ironman is the greatest surprise of these intense three competition days, coming from the Open and finishing in the Superfinal!

Everyone seemed happy, athletes and spectators alike (talking of which, there were plenty of people who travelled up the valley this afternoon). Jenny Lavarda wore a beaming smile after placing third, her discipline is sport climbing, and she would never have thought to place so well after touching so little ice. Another sport climber who fared well was Simon Wandeler, third with two tops and a great interpreter of the figure-four, or Yaniro as it is called here in Italy. And happy they should have been!

The routes were, quite literally, breathtaking for both the athletes and the crowd. And all, once again, pulled out all the stops. First and foremost Euvgeny Krivosheytsev, the World Speed Champion who, after a slight hiccough on the first problem, raced determinedly to reach the podium. But despite his two tops he was unable to make up for the zone that separated him from Wandeler. Many will remember his successful leap on the second boulder, which only he and Klammer topped. And many will remember Bubu Bole’s determination which guaranteed him fifth place, and the performances of the remaining finalists: Markus Bendler finished sixth, Mario Prinoth finished seventh equal with Albert Leichtfried, and Diego Mabbioni finished ninth.

Valle di Daone is always described as being the best ice climbing competition in the world. And after every competition we repeat that the most recent edition was the best ever yet. At times repeating these superlatives may seem excessive, but please forgive us, this really is the case. Because this World Championship was another step forward for ice climbing. For a sport which showed itself as being spectacular, if carried out on a perfect structure and on perfect ice, just like here in Daone. And, need we mention, the routes have to be perfect like the ones set during these three days.

Daone was a success. This was due to all. Due to the athletes who competed, to Maurizio Gallo (the architect, engineer and inventor of the ice structure together with Placido Corradi), to the impeccable route setters Attilio Munari, Marco and Massimo da Pozzo and Pietro dal Prà, to the indispensable “army” of volunteers led by Candido Grezzi, the President of the Pareti di Cristallo committee. And this success owes its thanks above all to the exaggerated passion for ice climbing and for this valley. Because, as we all know, it is this driving passion that is the key to real success.
Vinicio Stefanello

SUPER FINALE FEMMINILE
1 Papert Ines (Germany)
2 Koulikova Natalia (Russia)

SUPER FINALE MASCHILE
1 Berger Harald (Austria)
2 Klammer Herbert (Italy)

FINALE FEMMINILE
1 Papert Ines (Germany)
2 Koulikova Natalia (Russia)
3 Lavarda Jenny (Italy)
4 Muller Petra (Switzerland)
5 Shabalina Maria (Russia)
6 Filippova Maryam (Russia)

FINALE MASCHILE
1 Klammer Herbert (Italy)
2 Berger Harald (Austria)
3 Wandeler Simon (Switzerland)
4 Krivosheytsev Evgeny (Ukraine)
5 Bole Mauro (Italy)
6 Bendler Markus (Austria)
7 Prinoth Mario (Italy)
8 Leichtfried Albert (Austria)
9 Mabboni Diego (Italy)
by mountain network srl

La Sportiva Nepal Evo Stage
Valle di Daone, 30-31 January 2005
A La Sportiva technical stage has taken place in Val di Daone in the days following the ice-climbing competition. Subject of the meeting was the world’s first introduction, to the best Italian dealers, of the model Nepal Evo, the new La Sportiva model that presents itself as the most advanced mountaineering boot on the market.
The numerous participants, representing about thirty shops, have been able to get to know the details of the new La Sportiva creation. The stage has been organized by La Sportiva marketing department, with the collaboration of the Gore-Tex technicians and Anna Torretta and Simone Moro, athletes of La Sportiva team.
At the end of the meeting all the people present were excited and very satisfied, also because the wonderful environmental conditions allowed to fully enjoy the ice falls of Daone, climbed by some of the participants to the stage. Others instead went for a hike in the forest, appreciating the remarkable all-around characteristics of the boot.
The feedback obtained from the field test of the Nepal Evo has been very good, and the boot has been particularly appreciated for its comfortable fit, precise use and insulation.
Oscar Durbiano